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TOPIC: Bottom end is together

Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59083

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Rather than continuing to hijack Dave's thread :X I'll start another. Buttoned up the bottom end today. Bearing clearances are .0015" to .002" well within tolerances. Gave the block a coat of paint. I never noticed this the last time I had this apart, the crank counter weights on #2 and #3 have been ground. There's a lot of meat off the #3's. Had I not run this engine last summer I may have been concerned. It ran very smoothly, so could this have been balanced? Interesting, I will be looking at some of the other loose cranks I have.
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Dick Johnson

1989 16ft Sylvan

'57 Evinrude 18 (finally found a decent one)
'58 Johnson 5.5
'72 Johnson 6.0
'61 Homelite
'64 Johnson 18
'65 Homelite 55
'66 Homelite 55
'68 Bearcat 55 (3)
'70 Bearcat 55 (2)
'71 Bearcat 85 (Sold)

Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59084

One word, sweet!

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Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59096

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Thanks Craig! Are you doing any powerhead work on yours?

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Dick Johnson

1989 16ft Sylvan

'57 Evinrude 18 (finally found a decent one)
'58 Johnson 5.5
'72 Johnson 6.0
'61 Homelite
'64 Johnson 18
'65 Homelite 55
'66 Homelite 55
'68 Bearcat 55 (3)
'70 Bearcat 55 (2)
'71 Bearcat 85 (Sold)

Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59115

Very interesting! B)

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Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59147

No, already did one. As a matter of fact, I've done quite a few. I was going to say that the machinist will sometimes grind where he wants to, to balance the crank. Sometimes they will grind or sometimes they will actually drill into the crankshaft counterweight. By the way, the connecting rods should be balanced within the weight of a dollar bill! I'm sure they are. Hint: when you set the valve clearance, go backwards, in firing order. On compression stroke, both valves should be closed, that's the best time to set the clearance. Going backwards, your coming off the backside of the cam. The backside is a little "Flatter". It's designed that way so the valve seats quicker. So when you go backwards, it raises more abruptly, and gives a more accurate clearance. Kinda hard for me to describe. You don't have to, but, that was a little trick I learned in mechanics school. I hope it helps.

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Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59188

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CraigLam wrote:

No, already did one. As a matter of fact, I've done quite a few. By the way, the connecting rods should be balanced within the weight of a dollar bill!


I hadn't realized you've already done yours. You've done quite a few Homelite/Bearcat engines, cool! I'd been reading in the manual about the special tool for installing valve seals on these which I didn't have so I'm curious, do you have the tool and if so could you post a picture of it? After splitting two of my new keepers I was finally able to get them back on using an old valve guide. Getting the clearance right was tricky. The "shade tree" method seemed to work fine! :) Good point about the rods, I know with your experience with these engines you already know about the color coding of the rods.

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Dick Johnson

1989 16ft Sylvan

'57 Evinrude 18 (finally found a decent one)
'58 Johnson 5.5
'72 Johnson 6.0
'61 Homelite
'64 Johnson 18
'65 Homelite 55
'66 Homelite 55
'68 Bearcat 55 (3)
'70 Bearcat 55 (2)
'71 Bearcat 85 (Sold)

Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59200

The manuel does say there is a special tool for installing valve stem seals. Good luck in finding one. I did what you did. Use an old valve guide. You use it upside down. Couple of questions. Did you use clevite rated bearings for the crank? I don't see assembly lube squishing out. Did you coat the bearings before assembly? Could you show some photos of the top of the engine? Last question. Could you take me fishing with you when your done? :)

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Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59235

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Craig, I did not put bearings in. These bearings looked new and the crankshaft was beautiful so I decided to to reuse them if the clearances checked out. I checked everything with plastiguage and it was well within tolerances. I'm old school, coated everything with STP as I've done for over 40yrs, never had a problem. Engine is on the work bench upside down, won't get the pan on till next week as I'm working the Portland Swapmeet this week. I can get pictures of the top then. Here's a picture from the meet. This is a Honda Koni PU with a small block Chevy for power. Boat content: the set up is a boat V-drive. It can be yours for a mere $3000. Looks like a death wish to me.................... :unsure:
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Dick Johnson

1989 16ft Sylvan

'57 Evinrude 18 (finally found a decent one)
'58 Johnson 5.5
'72 Johnson 6.0
'61 Homelite
'64 Johnson 18
'65 Homelite 55
'66 Homelite 55
'68 Bearcat 55 (3)
'70 Bearcat 55 (2)
'71 Bearcat 85 (Sold)

Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59242

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CraigLam wrote:

Could you take me fishing with you when your done? :)


I forgot to answer the most important question! Don't have to wait till I'm done there's a runner on the boat now. There's 3 more in the garage, one of them is the 85hp. Let's go! :laugh:

One other thing, I was on the SKF site, they make lots of valve seals. I'm going to see what they have that might work as a replacement on these engines.

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Dick Johnson

1989 16ft Sylvan

'57 Evinrude 18 (finally found a decent one)
'58 Johnson 5.5
'72 Johnson 6.0
'61 Homelite
'64 Johnson 18
'65 Homelite 55
'66 Homelite 55
'68 Bearcat 55 (3)
'70 Bearcat 55 (2)
'71 Bearcat 85 (Sold)

Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59260

You do exactly what I do...old school. Seems to be the best. I plastiguage as well. The green one. The red has different tolerances. STP works great. It will keep the bearings lubricated 'till oil pressure is reached. That Honda looks like something my neighbor would have. He's really into racing. He had an old rail-type car and raced a 350 with a flat tappet cam. They call him "Doc". He can literally repair anything that has a motor. Anyway, I passed my 7018 verticle welding test and only have 5 more weeks before school ends. I'll get my certificate, but, not gonna go for my L.A. city license. After I get my Bearcat fully repaired, I'm gonna start on my trailer. I have a thread on trailer talk so, I'll post my progress there. What color are you gonna paint the motor?

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Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59401

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Butt test or fillet? I got those certs in '86, vert and overhead butt. Duel shield butts unlimited thickness in '75 and again in '86, innersheild in '90, duel shield vert w/ceramic tape in '95 and innersheild pipe in '98. The Co. I worked for (23yrs) shut it's doors last May and bought a Lincoln Squrewave Tig 175 at their auction in Jan. Still have to set it up.

This engine is going white, it was blue and white but I've aquired enough parts to go all white. The blue parts will go on my blue "F" model to replace the white starter and flywheel.

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Dick Johnson

1989 16ft Sylvan

'57 Evinrude 18 (finally found a decent one)
'58 Johnson 5.5
'72 Johnson 6.0
'61 Homelite
'64 Johnson 18
'65 Homelite 55
'66 Homelite 55
'68 Bearcat 55 (3)
'70 Bearcat 55 (2)
'71 Bearcat 85 (Sold)

Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59412

No butt test. Fillet and groove. Verticle only, but tomorrow we will test overhead. Since I'm a beginning welder, tig and aluminum won't happen 'till next semester. I probably won't take that course, since I only wanted to learn how to do mild steel. I have no where the experience you have as a welder. I just wanted to do my own welding. I have a small torch set and a buz box. My tax return was nice, so now I can afford a mig unit. I think I'll take some advice I got here an get the Eastwood. Free shipping!
I like the blue color and am going to paint the motor that color, from the engine pan on down and white for the cowling.
I popped the valve cover today and everything looks good. The distrubutor can use a little cleanup. I'll be in the garage, so, I'll probably take some photos of the engine. By the way. Miller has come out with a new mig. Millermatic 211. 900 bucks!

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Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59422

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My welding is all shipyard experience. I recently sold my buzz box as the tig unit also does stick ac or dc. I bought one of the little 110v Lincoln mig units years ago.

Not sure what I'll do cosmetically on the engine's outer. I'm thinking silver to maybe gray. My boat has no blue on it.

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Dick Johnson

1989 16ft Sylvan

'57 Evinrude 18 (finally found a decent one)
'58 Johnson 5.5
'72 Johnson 6.0
'61 Homelite
'64 Johnson 18
'65 Homelite 55
'66 Homelite 55
'68 Bearcat 55 (3)
'70 Bearcat 55 (2)
'71 Bearcat 85 (Sold)

Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59429

Deja Vu! I worked a Todd Shipyard as a carpenter years ago. 7,000 employees. We worked on the FFG Guided missile launchers. Then I worked in another boatyard building cabinets and woodwork on yachts. Anyway, I had my overhead test today and did well. 7018 and 6010. I'm headed to the garage now to gap test my valves. I'll take some pictures and post later this afternoon.

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Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59504

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Todd I think recently sold to Vigor. We had bought several years ago tools from Todd. Vigor is growing, Portland, Tacoma, Seattle, and Port Angles.

Buttoned up the bottom end today, will now reinstall the cam and check clearances. Got an idea today about the valve seal replacement. Pulled a valve seal from an old block without removing the brass retainer and replaced the seal, worked well.

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Dick Johnson

1989 16ft Sylvan

'57 Evinrude 18 (finally found a decent one)
'58 Johnson 5.5
'72 Johnson 6.0
'61 Homelite
'64 Johnson 18
'65 Homelite 55
'66 Homelite 55
'68 Bearcat 55 (3)
'70 Bearcat 55 (2)
'71 Bearcat 85 (Sold)

Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59514

Good to hear things are going well. Not so much for me. After I pulled the valve cover off, I checked the clearance on the valves. Intake are supposed to be .012-.014 and exhaust are supposed to be .015-.017. Not anywhere near that. So, I go down to my auto parts store and get some plastiguage and check one of the bearings. .001-.0015. It's supposed to be .0025-.0035. Actually, I'm not surprised to see this, the way this motor was hodge podged together. I think the mechanic got this motor and just did the bottom end. I'm not sure if he did the crank journals like you did. He may have done the valves 'cause the compression is very good and just left it at that. The cam bearings are scored, too. If the valves were bad, the compression would not be that good. So, it looks like I'm gonna have to get a new cam setup. I may pull the pan later on down the road and check one cyl. If it's bad, I gotta start from ground zero. After this motor, I'm gonna see if I can just get a power head, and start from scratch.

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Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59640

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Sorry to hear the bad news about yours. That is why I bought so many of these engines, to have enough parts on had to get me through most problems.

My cam is installed and clearances are set, I could be up running very shortly.

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Dick Johnson

1989 16ft Sylvan

'57 Evinrude 18 (finally found a decent one)
'58 Johnson 5.5
'72 Johnson 6.0
'61 Homelite
'64 Johnson 18
'65 Homelite 55
'66 Homelite 55
'68 Bearcat 55 (3)
'70 Bearcat 55 (2)
'71 Bearcat 85 (Sold)

Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59643


Actually, It's not as bad as it sounds. Turns out, you can use plastiguage to check clearances, but, not for ten thousandths. So, I bought a digital mic and used that. The cam was .6230 +/- and the bearings were .6260+/-. If I did this correct, the clearance is .0030. Which is between .0025 and .0035. I took all the valve shims out mic'd them and will order the spacers necessary. The person who had this motor before me, put an electric fuel pump on. Any thoughts? Is a mechanical one better?

Here's a picture of the shim layout. The shims are listed in the manual. Well, it's back to the garage.

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Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59664

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Good deal looks like you are okay. I thought that was strange that your clearances were tight, you'd think as it wore it would be lose. I hate those valve shims, my cam was removed 3 times before I got them right. Same thing the last time I did this. While you're in there you should check the clearance on the bevel drive gear. It should be .002". I'm at .0015" with mine, backlash should be .004" and that's what I have so that's where it stays. When I put this together the last time I had to double up shims for the cam end play to get my .002" That is still okay. Electric or manual fuel pump is fine with me, one of my engines has an electric the others are manual. I would however hook up a pressure switch (oil pressure) so when the engine shuts down so does the electric pump as a safety precaution.

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Dick Johnson

1989 16ft Sylvan

'57 Evinrude 18 (finally found a decent one)
'58 Johnson 5.5
'72 Johnson 6.0
'61 Homelite
'64 Johnson 18
'65 Homelite 55
'66 Homelite 55
'68 Bearcat 55 (3)
'70 Bearcat 55 (2)
'71 Bearcat 85 (Sold)

Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59676

Thanks for the tip. I keep forgetting to mention. I've been looking for a thinner for my 2 part epoxy. Not a reducer, but, a thinner. I've found it. I went to Wholesale Marine.com, and found Pettit No. 97, 2 part epoxy marine. All this time, that's what's been holding up the re-assembly of the lower unit. I hope they can mail it to me it's only 20 bucks!. Here it's $43. You motor looks like you sprayed it, which is the absolutely the best. The guns I have are very expensive and designed to spray just about anything. In fact I'll be in the shop today and I'll photo a couple of the them. One is a Binks Model 7, my favorite one. I also have a Binks 3 gallon pot-spray a whole boat in 1 shot!

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Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59708

I'm back! I went to the garage and took some photos. I couldn't find my Model 7. It's around somewhere in that black hole called my garage. The need and nozzle insert was especially made for spraying epoxy. The opening is so specific, as to limit the amount of overspray. The pressure is about 30 to 40 psi. It cost me $135.00 for that set up and does a great job. Bill sent me everything I need to put the lower end together. Now I can finally spray. Color scheme? I think I'm going to spray the leg unit white, the yoke blue and the motor pan blue. Very similar to original. Not sure about the transom mount and brackets.



The top is my Sharpe 866, middle is my all around gun Sharpe model 55.

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Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59724

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I'm not much of a painter. My block was rattle canned. My paint guns are from Habor Freight and those $9.95 detail guns work great. I had excellent results on the two motocycle tanks I painted with it. The thumb trigger kind of sucks though.

I'm done with the cam setup so it's on to the final assembly!





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Dick Johnson

1989 16ft Sylvan

'57 Evinrude 18 (finally found a decent one)
'58 Johnson 5.5
'72 Johnson 6.0
'61 Homelite
'64 Johnson 18
'65 Homelite 55
'66 Homelite 55
'68 Bearcat 55 (3)
'70 Bearcat 55 (2)
'71 Bearcat 85 (Sold)

Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59745

Impressive. Most of the hardwork is done. Once the block is together the leg is somewhat routine. I always check the upper leg and impellor housing for fit. Then I flat file if necessary. The two fit together perfectly. There's no gasket there. I'm gonna take more photos today. I've already ordered the thinner. By the way, I'm not sure if you know this, wet sand the primed parts with 400, then 600, the 1500. The end result is a smooth surface for finish. Then 1500 the finish and 2000 if it needs it. Then whatever polish you have. The block doesn't need to wet sanded. They're generally rough textured, anyway. Don't forget to leave your muffler out! From what I hear, it has a negative reaction with aluminum. I'm going to experiment with a fiberglass product looks like honeycomb. Just curious of the results. It's exciting when you first start it up with a rebuilt motor. Question; What do you use for a water inlet adapter?

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Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59748

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I've made up two water inlet adapters. The quick setup with the springs needs a little more work but does work as is. The plate with the bolt works very well and it is the one I use the most. Remove the water pickup screen and the screw this on in it's place.



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Dick Johnson

1989 16ft Sylvan

'57 Evinrude 18 (finally found a decent one)
'58 Johnson 5.5
'72 Johnson 6.0
'61 Homelite
'64 Johnson 18
'65 Homelite 55
'66 Homelite 55
'68 Bearcat 55 (3)
'70 Bearcat 55 (2)
'71 Bearcat 85 (Sold)

Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59749

That is so cool. I can make that! We're not supposed to make personal projects at welding school, but, I'll ask the teacher. I'm sure he won't mind. 1/8" or 3/16" sheet, drill a hole, mig a pipe on it and voila! I could even mig on an angle pipe so the water hook up will be easier. Think these things could sell?

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Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59797

This is what I put together to enable my Homelites to be tested out of water and on a hose. Simple and cheap!

Greg Anderson
Wisconsin
Purchased a set of "muffs" that the rubber part was square.
Remove Water inlet strainer and prop from motor.
Cut off the rubber square that did not have the garden hose attachment.
Note that I have to put a few small blocks of wood to create tension to keep the square rubber fitting in place and tight.
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Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59799

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I like it! Very quick and simple.

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Dick Johnson

1989 16ft Sylvan

'57 Evinrude 18 (finally found a decent one)
'58 Johnson 5.5
'72 Johnson 6.0
'61 Homelite
'64 Johnson 18
'65 Homelite 55
'66 Homelite 55
'68 Bearcat 55 (3)
'70 Bearcat 55 (2)
'71 Bearcat 85 (Sold)

Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #59825

That's cooler than cool! Where did you get the muffs? I think I know how you hooked up the hose fitting. You used the screw flange to attach it thru the hole in the muff. Very clever. Looks like you don't even need to remove the screen.

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Re:Bottom end is together 12 years 5 months ago #60140

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More progress, painted a blue manifold white the other day and will install it this morning. Mounted the Hi/Lo alternator switch on the white bracket for the starter and discovered it wasn't working and apparently hasn't from the time I first installed it last year. Took it apart, cleaned it, and it now works fine. Older parts are so nice to work with as you can disassemble, clean, and reassemble unlike this new crap that's basically throw away when it's broke. Still shooting for a test fire this weekend!

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Dick Johnson

1989 16ft Sylvan

'57 Evinrude 18 (finally found a decent one)
'58 Johnson 5.5
'72 Johnson 6.0
'61 Homelite
'64 Johnson 18
'65 Homelite 55
'66 Homelite 55
'68 Bearcat 55 (3)
'70 Bearcat 55 (2)
'71 Bearcat 85 (Sold)
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