TOPIC: 1962 Buehler Turbocraft Jet 35 Windshield

This was posted before and I put it in my favorites because I may make one myself. Credit to who ever posted it before. I'm old and can't remember. www.glen-l.com/weblettr/webletters-5/wl43-windshield1.html

If you don't go the route in the link above (which is well done), you might want to call around to some plastics fabrication companies in your area. Depending on their areas of expertise, good shops can remake windshields from acrylic. This route, of course, would still leave you in need of a frame (assuming you don't want to reuse the one that's been drilled-out).

If you do, in fact, attempt to salvage your existing windshield, or even if you find a used replacement, Novus plastic polish works wonders on these old windshields. I have a 70 Buehler and the windshield was very hazy/scratched when I bought it and the Novus really brought it back.

Thanks for the help! I have done alot of boat work in my time, but never have I had to do a windshield, so this will be a good experience! (I hope!) My frame is in good condtion, so I hope to salvage that. My glass has about four cracks and some hazing, so it is toast! It seems to be a pretty thick plexiglass. What 1970 Beuhler model do you have? I love that step tail section on your jet unit. That was engineering genius!

My '70 is a Bolero.....unrestored except for guages and an engine rebuild (318). You're right, the rear step was a pretty clever design.....as were a lot of the things that Buehler added to their boats over the years.

Taylor Made can custom almost anything

I will call Taylormade and see what they can do! Thanks for the suggestion. Love the Buehler Bolero! That is my favorite model by Beuhler. I have my eye on a basket case Bolero and maybe someday I will undertake that one! I know, one boat at a time! I have the 1967 Catalog and they were nicely styled.
In taking my 1962 Jet 35 apart, I am amazed at what I am finding. Rubrail, and all screws were backed by nylon nuts on stainless screws, so they all come off pretty easily. Not too bad for a 50 year old boat! All hardware seems to be pretty top qauality. It has nice elctric horns and all of the hardware is really polishing up nicely thanks to my trusty bronze wool.
Love to see more pictures of your Bolero!

72hornet wrote:

Love to see more pictures of your Bolero!

I second that!!

I'd be interested in hearing what Taylor Made has to say....and I'll be happy to dig up and post some additioal photos.

I used to be a judge in concours Mustang shows on the west coast during the 80s-90s. That looks like the Pony / GT interior option wheel.

Here's the options page of the '69 brochure. I was mistaken in recalling that it actually noted the wheel as being specific to a Mustang. Just says "wood grain". The center cap on the wheel (under the Buehler logo) is, however, the plastic mustang logo.

I think you're exactly right.....when doing some searches online, I think I concluded that it's a GT wheel.

Here's another pic. I'll try to dig up some better interior shots.

Love the Bolero model. I used to have a JEt 35 back in the 90s that was a 1960 model and was wondering how the performance was with the newer Bolero. I always used to have to hammer on the Jet 35 to get it to plane out and ten back off once on plane. It really handled nice at idle and was a fun boat to drive. Just curious to see if the new model had imp;roved performance...

Funny, when asked about the boat's performance, my initial thought is to come up with some critiques.....and then I remind myself that it's 42 years old. To that point, it performs really well. It sounds like it gets on plane with a little less effort than your old 35. However, it still planes best when you just crack it wide open.

It's actually a pretty quick boat out of the hole. I've done a couple of side-by-side holeshots with a friend who has a Ski Nautique and the Buehler's usually up and on plane quicker....then he'll start to creep up and, eventually, pull away as we hit 30-35 or so. Again, not bad for 42 years old and 220'ish hp 318.

I found an old Popular Mechanics article from 1968....in which they tested the Bolero. They rated it's top speed at 42. I'd say that was a pretty accurate number.

I'm right with you on the idle handling/driving. Some people couldn't/can't stand driving jets at idle speed. I think it's my favorite part (the sound doesn't hurt either).

That is really a very respectable top speed. I was told that my 1962 had at one time had some work done to the pitch of the turbines in the jet unit. I remember my next door neighbor telling me that years ago as my boat was owned by his close friend. I do not know if this is accurate or not, but I am excited to see if that is the case. At one point, a Buehler employee back in the day had mentioned a YZ pump that was very strong in the performance and was used late in the production. I don't know if there is any truth to that as I have not found any serial numbers on later jet units from Buehler. I am trying to compile all of this information for all to enjoy and learn from. I need to get a new camera and get some pictures of my work in progress!

As far as I know, there is, in fact, some truth to that performance pump. However, it’s my understanding that it’s not specific to the pump, rather, the impeller. I’m not sure if it’s a formal or informal designation but I’ve come to know it as a “Z-blade”. They can be identified as being made of bronze. The extent to which I can lend any credence to that story is only in saying that I do, actually, have a bronze impeller in my pump.

A few years ago, I picked up a nicely built 1969 Chrysler 340 automotive engine (desirable X-casting cylinder heads, etc.). In addition to the HP and high-revs, I bought it knowing that all of the 318’s marine-specific components would bolt right up to it……and no adjustments would be required to mount it or connect it to the pump. Eventually, the Bolero is due for a stringer job so my "plan" is to drop that motor in it. Should that plan actually come to fruition, I may consider having some work done to the impellers to compliment the HP and rpm range of the 340.

That is good to know. I am currently trying to get the contact information of the engineer from Buehler that had intitially told me of the "Z" pump or impellor. I also am trying ot contact the son of the original owner of my Jet 35 as he had alot of experience with the boat since new. (He was emplyed at his father's Pontiac delaership and was very mechanically inclined) As soon as I make contact, I will post everything I learn. Where do you boat with your Bolero?

Let me know what info you're looking for on the z-blades and/or anything else you're trying to dig up. I might be able to help.

Re: the former Buehler employee that you spoke to, I won't ask you to post someone's name in a public forum but, I may be able to help you with that as well. Feel free to send a private message if you'd like.

This some interesting information. My Boat is titled as a 1975. It has a 273 Chrysler all original boat. I am installing a 360 Chrysler in it and it will bolt right in. It will be an internal balance engine with some new EQ magnum heads. It will look dead stock but have some gonads. Having said that I have been trying to understand the jet drive. It is nothing like the 3 stages I have seen. It must be the Z blade jet as it has one large Bronze Impeller with a lot of angle. It then drives the water into a diversion screen that is angles to drive one more impeller of the typical design of that day. From there it exits thru one more square screen. The last stage is tapered in the housing to pick up some water speed I believe. So I am calling this a two stage and since this boat is probably one of the last boats builts, I am pretty sure this would be the last style of jet style. I can post some pictures if I could figure this out....

I have two tags on my 75 Buehler.....both tags end the serial number with Z
These jet drives have an inspection cover and very different from the typical three stage pumps for better or worse...not sure.

Big Long propeller looking blade

The body of the entire drive is diffrent..shorter and the piece leaving the hull is tapered. It also has a large inspection cover.......good place to do a clean out in case you need to.
You can look down the over and see the intake grill.
A member said the intake starved for water..There is a fix for this I believe but not sure....so if anybody knows the fix that would be great!

My dad just gave me my childhood boat (A 69 buehler jet bolero). But i cannot find any info or pics of the 69. Any ideas for my as i am in North Carolina and the boat is in Michigan. My dad has taken care of it like it was his baby since it arrived in our family in 1974.

Chameleon, The picture of the Bolero in this link would be just like yours. To the best of my knowledge, Buehler did not change the hull design during production. They may have changed the color options, but nothing major in hull design.
Johnny Rocket, do you have pictures of your Buehler? I do not think you have a 1975 Buehler as they ceased production in 1971 on the boat production line.

Yes if you go over to the disco glass section there is a picture. I am only going by the title......I looked again and the title says 1974

I called the dealer in Pnwho soldit and he claims its a 1974
John Buehler died in 1971. And I know he had some financial issues before then and maybe sold the boat business......

Maybe some people may have continued it for awhile?

It does have the Z drive however. It has an inspection cover/cleanout and I dont see any other drives having that...It has two tags on the drive....one on the bottom towards the front and one on the transom. If you give me your email I will send you some more pictures. I cannot seem to load them here....I have quite a bit to show the forum including some original "Turbocraft Newspapers" I bought these on ebay and a very interesting original letter from a famous WW2 pilot wanting to purchase a Buehler......

Johnny, I wold love to see that information as a few of the Buehler fans on this site and myself are trying to pool our Buehler information and get it loaded so we can all learn and enjoy what we all have. I have the copies of the Indiana Gear Works newsletters from the late 50's and early 60's that I would love to share as well. Feel free to email me and we can go from there.
If I am not mistaken, John Buehler died in the early 80's. According to mny records, the plant closed in 1971. I am wondering if they titled your boat as a 1974 as it may have been a carry over model. Please note that I am just speculating...

Johnny – Hornet is correct about the dates of Buehler’s closing, John’s passing, etc.

The likelihood is that your Caballero was produced in 70-71 and was leftover stock for a dealer after the plant’s closing (if it is, in fact, even the first title ever issued on that boat). Check the date codes on your 273.

As for your drive, what you’re describing is the standard Buehler pump design as of the mid-late 60’s. The “Z” simply denotes a specific impeller……not a unique drive unit/pump. That cover you refer to was added in later years so that one could remove a ski rope, etc. that had been sucked up through the grate.

Toward the rear of the pump, angled toward the right if you’re looking to the stern, you’ll see a 2-3” circle protruding from the pump. At one time (pre Chrysler power), Buehler’s cooled their engines via the jet drive (Hornet’s may be like this). The center of that circle is where they would have tapped it for the plumbing. When they switched over to Chrysler engines, Chrysler Marine said they wouldn’t warranty the engines if they were cooled via the pump……hence the Sherwood raw water pumps on the later, Chrysler powered, models. You can still tap that hole and ditch your Sherwood. It’s actually more reliable than a RW impeller because, as long as the jet’s spinning, you’re getting water. The only downside is that, depending on where you’re boating, anything you’re sucking into the pump (sand, weeds, etc.) may be delivered through the engine.

A note about your 360 install. It’s a good call, however, if you want to get the most out of it, performance wise, you may want to consider having your impellers tweaked for the engine’s specs (cam/RPM, HP, etc.). 360's generally don’t build-out to spin as high as 318’s and 340’s so, RMP wise, you may be close to what that 273 would have done. Also, if you’ve done the heads, etc. you might want to consider some Hitek exhaust manifolds (the only company, to my knowledge, that makes a performance exhaust for a small block Chrysler). The stock Chrysler marine manifolds will limit/choke a built-up engine.

thanks, I thought it was the same hull. Your boat looks awesome. Not going to get to use mine till next season.

I have two of those news magazines that I bought off of ebay...I have a real cool letter from the sales dept to a WW2 Fighter ace who wants to buy a Buehler. Its the original letter. I saw an old obit but it could be another guy or a mistake about the year. Yes it could have been a carry over model. Just what the title reads. I wish everybody could post all they serial numbers of the hull and drives somehwere. Maybe we could make some sense over it.

Johnny, can you make copies and post them? I am sure that the Buehler fans would enjoy them!

Send me your email

Thanks for all the great information. Especially the raw water port idea. A strainer and a globe valve would make this an easy change for the better. No more impellers to worry about!

Not sure what the Z impeller means but I do know its only a two stage. Most Buehlers I get a look at are three stage. My two stage has more of a propeller look to it. Is it worth anything over the typical 3 stages?

As to the year of my boat...it only has had three owners and the guy I bought it from had never tampered with the title. It probably is a dealer left over.

In one area that I am an EXPERT at and that would be High Performance engines. I have been an NHRA engine builder for more than 30 years building engines that make over 2.5 Horsepower per cubic inch out of a carburetor. I own multiple records over the course of many years with different engine combinations. I am only telling you this to give you some background and change your thoughts about this 360 engine.
Chrysler small blocks all have close to the same stroke. That would be 3.31 for the 273/318/and 3.58 with the larger bore for the 360 (4.040). THAT MEANS> All three have basically the same piston speed in all areas of the bore because the deck height 9.600 and the rod length are all closely matched. The piston speed is almost virtually the same for all three engines. The only difference in the architecture of these engines is the bore size... Chrysler has incrementaly been increasing the bore dia.thru the years. The 360 was the last bore change where it had increased from less than 4.00 all the way to 4.040. Thats one of the ways beside the stroke that the 360 was achieved. Bore x Bore x Stroke x 6.283 Increasing the bore size does two things. 1. Increases the cubic inches. 2.Increases the breathing. When you add bore size you have a chance to increase the breathing of the air pump because you can increase the Valve window opening. You will have less interference from the bore wall, so add all the valve you can get into the bore without opening the valve pocket and losing air speed. Believe me on this one> Bore size Trumps Stroke any day of the week. Engines depend on humans to match port volume and air speed to a particular RPM. Most of my engines were built to run in a small window of rpm (1700) average from 8300 RPM to 10,000 RPM. Now this Jet boat probably will peak no higher than 4500 and maybe less? So you build the engine to those parameters. Having said all of that the largest Bore will always out rev and make more power the smaller bore engine if the strokes/rod length is the same. We are not talking enough of a difference from the 273/318 stroke to the 360 to make any difference in the engine wanting to rev. The 360 will out rev the other two engines mentioned just on bore size alone. It gives the valve window some breathing room and if cant breath it cant rev! Just look at the valve size difference you can put in a 4.040 bore compared to the tiny bore in the 273.......WOW its a huge difference in valve size and that means rpm and breathing. I can make more Horsepower per cubic inch with a bigger bore engine every time. I can spin that engine higher and keep the HP climbing with the big bore as well. RPM makes Horsepower..Torque x RPM Divided by 5252. Not only will I have more torque but a bigger bore to breath. The stoke adds torque but so does the bore size. (If I build two identical engines cubic inch wise change the bores around and increasing and decreasing the stokes to keep them the same....The big bore engine will kill the little bore motor) The 360 will make more horsepower lower than a 273 and or 318 any day of the week. I hope you dont think reving( as you say> spin as high? )is 5000 rpm and below? I would rather have the cubes since the RPM thing wont be happening anyway. The jets are water pumps being driven by an air pump and you need all the torque you can get to turn the water brake....I know I have 30 years of dyno time. If you dont have the cubes you wont accelerate the water brake very fast.
I wont need to be tweaking anything..thats all about engineering and finite analysis.
The manifolds are a good idea but for 2300 dollars and finding out they are worth not much more than 20 HP from those that bought them....I will stick with my old junk. All I am doing is having fun and building a good sound engine that will purr like a kitten and hopefully pull a fat boy up on some skis...give me the 360 for that!

Having owned and built a couple, I'm actually familiar with the Chrysler small blocks and their similarities and subtle nuances....but thanks.

I'm also a bit familiar with how different engines mate to these pumps, in these boats, and was simply trying to offer some insight. I'm guessing that, with your stated NHRA and dyno expertise, if someone told you they were building a bigger/stronger motor, only to subsiquently slap it back up to the stock converter/trans/rear end, you might suggest a way by which they could get more of that power to the ground.

This was the primary point I was attempting to make....these pumps were designed for the engines that were driving them and the intended usage of the boats. They can be optimized for different engines/usages.

An added notation regarding the statement...

"The jets are water pumps being driven by an air pump and you need all the torque you can get to turn the water brake....I know I have 30 years of dyno time. If you dont have the cubes you wont accelerate the water brake very fast."

There is no water brake on a jet drive. It's not accurate to compare the load of a jet drive to that of a dyno’s water brake. The former is a method of propulsion, the latter is a method of measurement. The loads and how/when they're applied are not the same.

I really do appreciate your input and I do intend to use that port in the drive for cooling.....I will be glad to share this experience with everybody.
If you wanted to do this for more power then the entire jet would need to be replaced with axial flow etc....thats not going to happen.

There is a tremendous amount of drag on a boat hull. Its not like a car that you can push down the street by hand. Boats in general take alot of HP to gain a small amount. Quite the opposite of a automobile.

Because of this boats are very much like water brakes on a dyno with a preset torque arm. When you set up a dyno you hang weights off them to simulate the torque you think the engine will make. The boat is the same thing because the hull design is already in place and load is the load and or drag is fixed. You have constant load on that engine in a boat. There is no part throttle cruising like a car.

My point might be understood like this: If your cruising at part throttle down a lake with your boat say at 3000 rpm and you could suddenly lift it up onto the pavement and put tires under it all in one moment the boat would take off like a rocket.

Boats simulate an engine dyno better than anything else there is better than a airplane prop which uses air for drag and load.The engine always has a big load on it. Especially a jet drive because its the purest form of a load cell. So the water brake is our hull designs except its set at one load.

Ina dyno cell you can vary the load and bring the engine to its knees so to speak......you can do this with a boat as well. Throw the same engine and drive in another hull that is 5 times bigger and you will have varied the load. ON a dyno you can do it with a knob. Same thing.

You cannot dyno an engine on an engine stand or cruising down the road can you? You have to put a water brake on the flywheel in order to measure torque. Thats what our boats do..they load the engine.

You could spend thousands and thousands of dollars and get now where trying to tune an engine to an old impeller. A 360 just makes the bat a little more sweet is all. Not trying to climb mount Everest here.

As far as the engine being able to spin as you say.....it will out spin any 273 or 318. Bore size is the trump card. It has the bigger bore and better heads. If it breathes it spins as you would say.

I like the sleeper look so it will look stock and just have about 100 more cubes. I should feel that........probably less throttle for the same speed........if it has more torque at 3000rpm it will move the hull faster than the little 273 which also means the carb will be throttled back.
Its really all about HP per cubic inch. Or in this case Dollar per Horsepower. The 360 is the cheaper dollar per HP. If the 273 makes 200hp the 360 will make 300HP for the same money. What a bargain?

I will be taking out the Jet and tapping that boss..run it into a strainer and a clean out tap. Going to use the Groco parts. I may run a flow meter as well and a big temp warning light with a horn in case the engine gets too hot.( plugged with a weed etc) I will also probably run a Globe valve in line to throttle for 180 temps. Getting rid of that dual sherwood pump makes my day...and that sucker is worh about 300 400 bucks used!

Thanks agin for that insight....I would not have known that without your help!

Ps....how on earth would you optimize that old jet....were talking a new impeller with a different pitch and the list would be endless..thats all heavy engineering in my mind. You could waste more time gaining nothing. Why not just throw in and old berkley!

"Ps....how on earth would you optimize that old jet....were talking a new impeller with a different pitch and the list would be endless..thats all heavy engineering in my mind. You could waste more time gaining nothing. Why not just throw in and old berkley!"

Much to learn about your "old jet"....

Hey now....sweet video.Thanks for sharing. How shallow was the river? Is that a Z drive Jet? Or the typical 3 stage? This video is why we like jet boats I would say with the V8 power sound....loved it!
I take it from your email you did some modifications to the jet.......But that is out my expertise. How do you change the pitch etc etc........

Hello. I have been follow your post for the last few days wanted to know what your thoughts were on replacing my 318 with a 340 marine engine I picked up a couple of years ago. I have owed a 1972 Buehler for the past 20+ years, never had any trouble with the power of the 318, ran the same with 1 person or 6 in the boat. I always thought the best way to go faster was to increase my RPM. Having been around since the 340 came out I know they will crank more RPM than 318/225hp, plus it is rated 340/250hp, so maybe I will get the best of both, more RPM and HP in one

That 340 is a good bore and stroke combination. It has the same stroke as your 318 with a larger bore. That bore needs a minimum of a 2.050 Intake valve to let that engine breath. If you don't take advantage of the bore size with a larger valve window, you lose out on the benefit of that bore. Having said that, I think anytime you can increase the cubic inch of an engine you have an easier time making more power, based on cubes alone you would see an increase minimum of 24-30 HP.
The only thing I am not sure about is weather you would feel it or not. All boats have the same inherent problem> Drag ! Drag is such a problem with boats because they are laying on water. That's why high speed boats in any class trying to gain speed try to get the boat out of the water as much as possible. Hull design is probably more important than power. I see these Old Buehlers having a very ineffcient Jet drive that probably 25 or 35 Horsepower would be insignificant. I like the 340 engine for anything especially for cars. Now here is something you would like to know: The Chrysler engine has an 18 degree Valve angle. The chevys have a 23 degree valve angle. Having an 18 degree angle of the dangle means means the air does not have to make a big turn into the cylinder..all good. When you are trying to move air thru a port the least valve angle you have the better.Now another thing about that old 340 is it has a 9.600 Deck height and the chevy is 9.00. What does that mean? It means you can stroke the engine up to 400 cubes very easy.You dont harm anything because you can get the piston lighter which means it will rev faster..something nice for a jet boat. You have over a half inch of bore height to put in a different crank. You can buy a stoker crank that is cast for about 500 bucks. You need to change the pistons but if your going to freshen up an engine then you have to do that anyway.
This is the easiest way to make power.

So I have a question for you? Where does your engine RPM at full throttle? Or whats the highest RPM you see at wide open throttle? What rpm is a typical cruise? How long does it take to get to full speed?
Since I have not had my boat out I am curious. Do you have the older Three stage jet or the later two stage Z drive?

I looked at this Video on You Tube......Was this your grandfathers boat? If you are it looks like you did not know what he did to the impellers?
The Z drive is a two stage. It does not have 3 impellers only two. I have mine apart now. One large bronze impeller and one small stainless.
On antique boat .com there is a three stage for sale that comes with optional impellers from Buehler that were offered. Maybe you have those.
I would like to know if you have a clean out on your drive?

Taking in to account that the tech that is in the boat is 40+ years old the motor tops around 5200rpm and a good cruising rpm is 3500 to 3600 rpm. to get to full speed is around 1/4 to 1/2 mile, these distances are base on the fact the Ohio river is around 1 mile wide where I use the boat.It pop right out of the water 150/200 yards. I have a two stage pump. Since you have your pump apart, Between the bronze and stainless impellers inside the main housing is a rubber cutlass bearing (it is removable) it is the only real problem I have had with mine, the previous owner started it out of the water and ruined it, I could not find anything out about it 20 years ago so I had a shoe cobbler make me one out of a piece shoe sole worked for 15 years, 2 years ago I found a 69 bolero on craigslist (free) in Tampa Fl. it still had the 2 stage pump in so I made the trip to Fl. and picked it up So I have all the parts for another pump. The boat itself was toast after being in the Fl. sun for 40 years But I still have just in case I might need something. My boat looks just like the pic. BogdenZ posted a couple of weeks ago. Thanks

Thats interesting and a help for me as I am in the middle of a cam design. Thats a big help; the rpm info. Thanks. I have the main jet
body out of the boat...with the stages together. I also took off the small tapered housing with the diffuser.In the main housing I see the Bronze impeller ( 1st stage) with lots of taper....then a deflector that into a conventional stainless impeller (2nd stage). So two impellers in all.....I would call that a two stage. It looks in pretty good shape...the inpellers turn over smooth. I am afraid to take it any farther apart. I have between .016 and .019 clerance between the blades and wear rings. One of the blades on the stainless impeller looks bent a little. Not sure how to straighten it yet.
So how fast is 5200 RPM ?..did you gps it?
I would like to tap the rear housing or weld a fitting on it to cool the engine. So since its apart I am going to weld a fitting on it to try it. That would clean up the engine bay.
What engine temps do you see?
How big is the cutlass bearing.....I am wondering if you could ditch that bearing and run a ceramic bearing and water cool it...dont have to take the driveshaft off then to run the engine.
Do you have a picture of that bearing?
Thanks for all the info!