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TOPIC: Whirlwind 1961 restoration started

Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 5 years 1 month ago #141275

trying to get it going before bad weather sets in. wood seems pretty solid
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whats the best stripper for varnish 4 years 8 months ago #142054

ok im starting to work on it as we have to stay home more. ( i don't want to get started on that ) and I hope everyone will come out of this ok, it is very crazy.

I need to know what folks feel the best stripper chemical is to remove the finish on this boat ???

I used citirstripper on the fiberglass lakensea that i did but i am not really happy how that stuff is working to get the finish removed on this boat
thanks much

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whats the best stripper for varnish 4 years 8 months ago #142164

  • Eric Z
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Hi, I used Franmar Chemical - SOY Gel (now by Blue Bear) when I stripped the varnish from by wagemaker (also a molded hull) first coat on, wait approx 1.5 hours and it started to peel up, then scrape and do it again. then light sand. 2 videos on you tube under wagemaker wolverine restoration. I think you are in the Richmond area? We have at least 3 Whirlwinds in the Tidewater Chaper of the ACBS, 2 are based around Richmond and 1 approx 1.5 hrs east in the northern neck. post any questions and I'll ask the guys to reply or PM me for their info. pics below from a Tidewater picnic.
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whats the best stripper for varnish 4 years 7 months ago #142277

ok working on the stripping i ended up buying total boat total strip and a fancy scarper . The scraper was the best thing i never would have done much with the scrapers I was thinking of using lol
and i am sanding with 80 grip to clean things up a bit. and next step suggestions a guy howard from oldtimeworld says bleaching next ?? . I'm not sure i want to bleach ????

can i get some info on your group?? i am a beginner at all things boating thanks
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whats the best stripper for varnish 4 years 7 months ago #142278

oh i just saw the pictures they are looking good very good.

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whats the best stripper for varnish 4 years 7 months ago #142280

  • Eric Z
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I'll send you an email, assume your This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. is your correct email, with my contact info and the club member with the whirlwind in Powhatan Courthouse. He has owned 3 of them, different models. This video may be of help. It is a wagemaker but they share the same molded hull construction.

thanks, Eric
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whats the best stripper for varnish 4 years 7 months ago #142281

thank you i did look at the vids, some anyway, sadly i have to do everything out side. contacts would be a great help.

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whats the best stripper for varnish 4 years 7 months ago #142283

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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 7 months ago #142311

OK, i think i'm done with the stripping and 80 grit sanding after. Just a few somewhat bad spots of a layer of rot I do not plan to bleach, CPES for next step, not cheap bit the bullet and ordered the 2 gallon package .
you can't see this in the picture but far under the bow where the shelf starts , i did not strip just too hard to get to and it was in good shape. I don't think it will ever be noticed anyway.
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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 7 months ago #142336

sanding finished and i ordered CPES next step

any comments on stains, brands and colors, orange - red ????

i do not want it dark

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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 6 months ago #142415

any one want to comment on staining color the picture shows the start of putting on the ceps . it has darkened it up back to how it looked when i bought it. ( darker than I was interested in, but I know it needed that treatment of the ceps. i am thinking of using
Chris Craft Red Mahogany with Interlux Interstain Wood Filler Stain.
i do not want it to get any darker for sure
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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 6 months ago #142424

Personally, I would leave it with just the CPES. I think it will get darker if you stain it.
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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 6 months ago #142425

So I'm with Doug. Just use CEPS, but I would definitely do 2 coats then maybe a couple of coats of varnish. The Chris Craft Red is just going to make it look like the outside hull of a Chris Craft, unless of course that what your looking for. If I remember correctly they weren't really stained on the interior, just varnished.

Bob
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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 6 months ago #142429

frustrating decision i guess i'd have to buy some and test it in some hidden spots to see what happens.

I don't have any real in person hands on experience with wooden boats ( any boats for that mater lol ) chris craft or others so it's just from pictures on the internet

i did put the cpes on heavy per instructions then it said let it dry a number of days, light sand 220/320, then another coat and within 12-24 hours put the stain on

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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 6 months ago #142462

Can anyone answer a question about stain? I bought interlux filler stain and some 333 stuff to thin it.
two questions 1. any comments on the ratio to use of stain to 333 thinner?
2. if i mix a large batch and don't use it all can i seal it up and use it later over the next few days or so?

i know when using the 2 part stuff it will only last a few hours or less
thanks much

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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 6 months ago #142465

Can anyone answer a question about stain? I bought interlux filler stain and some 333 stuff to thin it.
two questions 1. any comments on the ratio to use of stain to 333 thinner?
2. if i mix a large batch and don't use it all can i seal it up and use it later over the next few days or so?

i know when using the 2 part stuff it will only last a few hours or less
thanks much

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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 6 months ago #142467

Joe I posted on your wood boat forum also. So I have to admit I don't remember the exact ratio I did for my Wagemaker but I put some stain in a small plastic bowl and just poured a little 333 in at a time, mixed it up until I got it thinner than peanut butter. If you use a good sealable container you should be ok to save for a day or so. it will completely harden up after a couple days. I started first thing in the morning and progressed until I got everything done. If it's a big job I would guestimate about how much I needed then go for it. That thinner makes it spread easy but wicks off fairly quickly.

Bob

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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 6 months ago #142471

thanks, im going to start with some testing of the mixture % , inside on the bottom of the hull because it will be covered by some removable flooring strips that came with the boat originally

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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 6 months ago #142478

testing the stain it is interlux chris craft red mahogany thinned . not quite till it can drip off the brush,cut the brush bristles half off so they are more like a tooth brush feel . painted it on just let is stay on for a min or so then rubbed off with burlap. circular motion the with the grain to finish. Not exactly the methods i have been seeing on youtube vids. but I want to see the grain and have some color. up close
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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 6 months ago #142479

Yeah that works, looks good. It's really up to you, if your happy with it that's all that counts.

Bob

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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 6 months ago #142493

Using a very thinner mixture as i go along than I started trying with. and put a very thinned out 2ed coat getting close to finishing the staining.
Now I have to start thinking about the best varnish to use

found this list in a search
Best Marine Varnish Reviews of 2020
1. TotalBoat Gleam Marine Spar Varnish
2. Rust-Oleum 1 Quart Marine Spar Varnish
3. Epifanes Clear Varnish
4. TotalBoat Lust Marine Varnish
5. Epifanes Wood Finish Matte
6. MCCLOSKEY Mow Spar Varn Gloss
7. TotalBoat Halcyon Gloss Marine Varnish
8. System Three Clear Marine Spar Urethane Varnish Coating
9. Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss
10. TotalBoat Marine Wood Finish
11. Waterlox Satin Marine Finish
12. Interlux Schooner Varnish
Any one want to comment? I was thinking of using the total boat , as i used their stripper and it seemed to do a good job. BUT it did say amber transparent coat. I don't want it any darker?? just a really deep shine lol
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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 6 months ago #142502

I used Epifanes, 12 coats.
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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 6 months ago #142505

OOOHHHH WOW!!!!! 12 coats
thanks for your input i have been reading and the TotalBoat Gleam Marine Spar Varnish sounds like a good match for me

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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 6 months ago #142524

can you offer an estimate on the number gallons i might need on mine to do maybe 5-6 coats. or how many coats can you get from a gallon? etc etc
not sure how ambitious i will get. i guess it depends on the results i see and time involved
thank you

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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 5 months ago #142666

Anyone have some good ideas on buffing up the chrome trim
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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 5 months ago #142714

Quick question does the name of the boat get painted on or decals etc. before the varnish??? or after it is all varnished

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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 5 months ago #142718

Sorry was away a little, anyway a gallon of varnish would be plenty, probably too much actually. I think I only used 3 quarts for the twelve coats if I remember right. That's not chrome you have, it's aluminum and it can be shined up with some work. Cal answered your post in the main forum but to repeat, if you paint it on then do it before the varnish if you don't eve plan to re-name her. If you re-name her use the proper ceremony or risk the wrath of Poseidon (goggle search boat renaming). My change to Cal's answer is if your going to use an old style slide on decal then do it before varnish also. Haven't really used any of the new decals but assuming they use a water release also.

Bob

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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 5 months ago #142720

  • 63 Sabre
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Bob, haven't seen slide on decals in many years. Now it's all computer cut stick on's made to order. Any font, color you can dream of. Most truck lettering places can do it and also Fast Signs.
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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 5 months ago #142728

ohhh boy lots of important info on a number of topics thank you very much

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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 5 months ago #142730

just some follow up progress. stained and now varnishing with total boat gleam i like it ! but I already finished off a gallon and was only on the 4th coat :( costly stuff . however I do like how it is looking (shinny lol ) and the color is more to my liking than when it just had the flat looking stain Got caught in a rain out burst and the boat got wet but at least it had a few coats of varnish on it lol I am also picturing my working conditions not easy. it is very hard to tell where you are once you start putting on the 2ed and addition coats of varnish.

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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 5 months ago #142731

work shed, so to speak
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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 5 months ago #142732

  • 63 Sabre
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Looks fantastic from here. Once the basics are done the fun starts putting it together. Ingenious cover for your work area. Love it.
Just a suggestion. For the lettering that I pictured, it's not expensive. I found a local gal that does it at home as a side business, That set of words plus a set of registration numbers was $17.00 total. Craigslist actually. Just about all the signage and lettering, pictures etc that you see on business vehicles are all computer cut-outs, not much old school painting anymore. Most of the boats in the marinas are all the stick-on.

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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 5 months ago #142735

lol I liked the name on your boat i will look at what people are advertising locally. I told my wife we need to think about a name, of the top of my head i told her how about topless ( a requirement to get a ride, LOL) . she was not impressed lol lol
It has been a challenge trying to keep that boat dry over the winter and while i was stripping and staining it. Now with a few coats of varnish maybe i can relax a bit if it gets wet a little lol lol.. that tarp is repurposed used billboard signs. It is not totally water proof but helps and helps with shade etc.

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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 5 months ago #142781

any one want to comment on the type of brush to use for the varnish coats.

I was sent those foam things, and for the first few coats i have been using the cheap brushes you get a lowes

thanks

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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 5 months ago #142784

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No foam brushes for varnish.
Best I have found are not the most expensive or the cheapest. A good middle of the price range will do very well. The ones I have used have what they call split ends. If you look at brushes they will say if they are good for varnish. A good 2 1/2 or 3 inch brush with soft split ends will work just fine. Recommended not to use the brush right out of the wrapper but clean it first in mineral spirits or thinner and dry it well. Manufacturing leaves lots of junk in there plus you want to knock out any loose bristles. Finish with lite smooth strokes in one direction, do not put it on thick, it will sag. Several lite thin coats are better. Lowes or Home Depot will have the brush you need, just ask an attendant.
I like the ones that are cut at an angle, easier to get in the tight areas.
This pic was copied from Home Depot site.
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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 5 months ago #142785

ok thanks appreciate you checking in

i guess im also wondering if i sanded enough after the first 3 coats i think i will do 2 more coats sand 1 more time then final coat for the outside. maybe inside the boat 1 more coat then sand and final coat . i'm already half way thru the 2 gallon of the gleam expensive suff

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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 4 months ago #142936

anyones thoughts about he following
the rail the supports the wood bench seats needs to be reattached after i'm finished varnishing. BUT now i'm realizing maybe i should have taped over the line where it screws into the sides ( hull ) because I wanted to use 3m 520 adhesive also, for additional strength, as it looked like they did use some kind of black glue when i took it off.
i'm thinking with those coats of varnish the 520 adhesive will not hold and i should sand down to the original wood along the strip where the bar will attach two pics below

Also , the screws for it, i think I should get new ones, should i get brass or stainless steel ??? the originals look like they are brass
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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 4 months ago #142939

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I would sand down to bare wood. Tape a wide swath on both sides of your lines and get the varnish off. More than likely those were brass screws. Most hardware or big box store will have them. As for the glue, if you want a real permanent fix use 3m 5200. Water proof and the wood will break before the glue gives way.
Anxious to see your finished project.

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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 4 months ago #142941

ok thanks, thats the plan

tape on the sides is a good idea, did not think of that as i did not think to keep that striped taped before i started to varnish

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Whirlwind 1961 restoration started 4 years 4 months ago #142944

I'm guessing you meant 3m 5200, don't know of a 520 but anyway I would go with what Cal said but be advised once you use that 5200 it will NEVER come off, with out cutting it. Once dried no solvent will remove it so it's pretty permanent. It comes in white/black or Mahogany color. IF you ever want to remove the seat again I would use 3M 4200 but I think it only comes in white. I use 4200 for fittings and things I might want to remove again later without having to use a multi tool with a slicing blade to get it off. lol Just my 2 cents.

Bob

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