With the bulk of the paint work done, I started on the upholstered dashboard.
lots of staples to remove.
wood is in decent shape and I'll give it a coat or two of CPES to seal it.
as I'm not going with back to back seats, the new rear bench seat will cover some of the side storage bins. So I opened up the length another 12". These panels will get an off white to match the vinyl on the deck and seat accent stripes.
cleaned up the deck trim that surrounds the 2 vinyl panels.
measured and cataloged all of the metal that will need to be chromed or polished for a quote.
started on the wheel restoration-
waiting for the seat upholstery, could be 12-14 weeks! and the new rub rail from Wefco.
New can of Zolatone arrived Friday.
Made a temporary spray booth and got the rear bench and front seat bases shot as well as the gas tank tray-
Love this stuff and looks great! it will get a coat of 2K semi-gloss clear in about a week after it vapes off.
Made some headway on the brightwork. The deck trim was pretty delicate so I tried cleaning and polishing with a drill buffer. No good. Used a buck board under the narrow trim and fed it under the wheel. First with compound and then with some Flitz polish. That worked well.
The heavy tempered glass windshield frame would only release from one side. So I was able to get the gasket out. Then used a gray 3M pad with Flitz, then compound on a drill buffer, and then back to Flitz on a micro cloth. Came out pretty good. Just needs a little detail work.
FYI- Wefco is no longer making white extruded products per Pete. They were running it a year ago but I had to wait a few weeks until they had enough orders to warrant cleaning the machines and prepping for white. Guess they didn't have enough orders coming in to continue. So black is all they extrude now. I'm going to try and clean up the piece I have as its an odd shape.
Wow... I need to get some grey pads. I already have the Flitz and love how well it works. However, I didn’t know your method of cleaning up the windshield trim. I zoomed in on that one picture and saw how it looked before cleaning it up and I was impressed with your results. This spring I will give it a try. My rub rail is solid radius aluminum and it is heavily scratched. Do you think this method will work with heavy scratching, or would I need to use different levels of sandpaper to get out the dock scratches?
morning, the gray pads worked well for surface crud and taking out minor defects. they do leave some light scratches so the drill style buffing wheels were needed to take those out. then the final polish with the flitz. Amazon or harbor freight offer a box of drill buffers with a stick of compound for approx $12.
the rub rails on my lake n sea were like yours. i had to start with some 600 grit wet paper and work my way up to around 1200 in spots to get the deeper ones out. then the compound and flitz. some are just too deep and the aluminum would get thin if I took them all the way down. and you know what...no matter how careful I was, i (or my "crew" trying out the boat) put more rubs on it this past summer. pic attached of of one side-
Thanks for all of the tips. I for sure want to polish up the windshield frame like yours. I may have to evaluate how much the rub rail is more like a scrub rail, so maybe if it already has tons of light scratches, I might just try some sandpaper to make it all a more consistent brushed aluminum look. If I try to make it shiny, perhaps the gouges would show up more and maybe make things look worse. Maybe if I just make my boat faster, no one will be able to notice. Your work is excellent. Love the boat and colors and shiny bright work.
changed out the vent from straight to 90 to easily bring it up the side of the engine well.
stripped approx. 6" of wire and put an eye connector on the end. ran a ground wire from the top bolt on the 316 stainless filler around the neck for good measure and plan to take that to the ground bus bar. there is another ground that goes from the fuel gage sender to the bus bar. green wire still coiled in picture
IS THAT ENOUGH TO DISCHARGE STATIC? this is the first permanent tank I have installed, want to do it correctly!
You got it right. Looks perfect. I've done a few installs like that. The wiring is good and leave yourself enough access to change the filter cartridge annually. One thing about permanent tanks is the fuel oil mix and how to keep it right. My solution was to add gas first and then oil to match the gallons you put in. Say if you went to a gas station to top off before a day on the water and there is only enough room for 4 gallons of gas you put in the gas first and then the correct amount of oil. If you add oil first and don't have enough room for matching gas the ratio is heavy. Unless you mix in a separate container and then funnel it in. It's pretty easy to overfill and have fuel come burping out the vent on a hot day. Leave some room at the top.
IMHO of course
63 Sabre, Question:
I'm not yet ready to hook up the fuel tank wires to the tank but when I do there is a lead from the gauge that is supposed to go to the ignition pole so that it is only on when the engine is on. My Merc control unit has has limited access to the key switch. So where are you tapping into the switch? On the attached PDF, it looks like I need to connect to "F" red or the white at the switch. OR I could possibly run a wire from one of these at the engine up to the gauge, i.e. off the rectifier or coil?
thanks in advance for any help and pictures that you could offer.
OK just to let you know I was never a Merc guy. but you're correct again. Sender (S) on the tank unit to (S) on the gauge. (-) on the tank unit to the SAME ground that your gauge is connected to.
Looking at you schematic I would go with the red wire also. That way when your key is turned on you will have power going to the gauge. If you have a multimeter you can check to be sure. Put the meter on 12 volt DC setting and then ground your meter and the touch your other lead to the red wire coming from your control, turn the key to "on" and you should get 12 volt reading. If that's good you will have your connection point.
I'm sure there are some Merc experts here to either confirm or deny. Here's a video that might help out also.
Got to use the harbor freight bender again making a new transom shield.
I'll probably use one of the small plastic or rubber cup pads under the 2 T handle motor screws as well.
Metal is packed and off to the chrome plater.
Vinyl for the upholstery is on order.
Excellent! Didn’t know they had a sheet metal break... likely never looked on that end of the store. Is that aluminum? How thick? What tools did you use for radius cutting that metal? Really looks nice. That is one of my next projects. Son in law is looking for some scrap metal for me and not sure if we can find aluminum or stainless. I am mounting a 6 cylinder and am thinking either 1/8 inch stainless or maybe 3/16 or even 1/4 inch aluminum... is that too thick? If that is aluminum, will it look like it wants to start cracking when bending 90 degrees. Sorry for all the questions, but I really like your results and figured you could set my mind at ease a little trying to copy you. The reason I was thinking thicker is to help reduce transom flex when using a lower pitch ski prop with more thrust when punching it to pull a skier.
HF has two sizes; this one does up to 18" width and than there is a wider version. get your 20% off coupon on line!
The original in the first picture was thin aluminum, tacked in around the perimeter with sheet metal or oval head screws. That's how my Lake n Sea was as well. The same configuration bent over the cap of the transom.
The Lake n Sea had another situation to address as I had a long shaft Merc so we made a heavy duty jack plate with my local welder and then a spent some time polishing it up. This set up did really well last summer. I posted a video in either the main forum or Merc, "Merc Eye Candy".
The aluminum is only about 1/16" thick, no problem bending it. could have probably gone thicker but the original wasn't. I had bought 2 sheets when I did the lake n sea, 18 x 24, from online metals.com, they run coupons as well. So I had this one sitting in the box ready to use.
I cut the radius with a jig saw, metal cutting fine tooth blade and then sanded the edge. it still has the protective plastic on it. I'll remove when I mount it, and give it a coat of wax or Flitz.
I'm also going to pick up an inexpensive transom pad, last picture, where the thumb screws tighten in and then run 2 stainless bolts through the lower brackets and transom. Seal hole around the threads-
I don’t have a thread started on mine as it may be summer or so before I can get to that part of the project. I still have one car that needs winter maintenance, a freshly powder coated trailer to re assemble before summer. 63 Sabre... your idea definitely would work and be much less effort. However, since I may get access to an Industrial sheet bender break and maybe a laser cutter, I want to try and go the extra mile. The main reason I want to go to the extra work of having the 2 full length bends is because I am trying to get more rigidity to distribute stress all across my transom. I have a Powercat with about a 58” wide almost full width transom. I am basically awaiting a return on several past favors, so I am trying to be patient or this will get pricy very fast.
vinyl arrived for the dash and side panels.
took the 2 dash hoods to a local upholstery shop and they stitched up the new skins for me.
some of the white will get "pulled in" tighter when the passenger handle and steering wheel hub get mounted. that is weeks off as they are still at the chrome plater.
Some chrome finish bling arrived yesterday so I was able to get the center console construction completed.
Console can be pushed back under a few more inches so I'll wait until the seats are complete to check for the final position.
Ran the same chrome trim along the gunnel where there originally was a strip of metal L channel but there's not enough meat left under there for nails again.
I'll post a "Vote" for position of the logo in the general forum.
Let me know what you think!
Very nice looking. I can imagine there is quite a bit of adjusting to get this fitting the way you like. Kudos for all of that work. Who is a good source for various size rollers. I am having a hard time finding the flat rolling pin looking rollers in medium lengths. I may just end up using my original rollers if I don’t find what I want. Mine are not cracked, so maybe some Armor All treatment will freshen them up. I just don’t think my original style rollers are the best for my hull. They are the keel type high on outside and low in middle, but I have flat hull surfaces with no keel to center. I like those flat orange rollers in the back, but those are too wide for my brackets.
Stoltz manufactures the orange urethane rollers in many shapes and sizes. Overton's carries the 12" flat roller for about $28. I blocked and clamped it on my miter saw. Using a sharp fine tooth blade, cut it in half for the 2 - 6" I needed. Go slow, the little urethane bits may melt or fuse together and can be removed and edge lightly sanded. Grease internally and use plastic or stainless washers on the sides. There are several sites that carry Stoltz and I had to go to 3 of them to get the mix I wanted. Used the same roller but only trimmed a little on the rear of my Lake n Sea - Gator trailer. There is a full thread on the Holsclaw restoration under "Trailer Talk".