TOPIC: Boat moves!

Frank there are a bunch of adjustments you might need to do where everything allignment wise has been disrupted by complete disassembly.
First a question, are you able to move the shift lever all the way forward to where the lever is at least parallel to the floor or does it stop before then? If throttle does not advance than it may be a sign that the high idle shift lock out is misadjusted which is too hard to explain here. The manual does explain it although generally this never needs touching as long as it is still at factory adjustment.
Anyways, on the early GearShift motors it is easiest to do all this with the cables disconnected from the motor, the lower in Neutral which detents in the lower unit.
The shift shaft on the motor also has a neutral detent, look under the bottom carb, there is a cresent shaped arm with a groove that a spring clicks into make sure the spring is clicked into the center groove if there is more than one groove. We will worry about connecting the control cables and getting those adjusted later.
In the lower unit there is a reverse and neutral locking mechanism so the motor does not tilt up when put in reverse. Rather than explain here make sure those pieces are correctly placed by looking at pictures in the manual. There is also a thread spool shaped piece of plastic that slides over the shift shaft splined sleeve at the bottom of the driveshaft housing, I use grease to hold this in place, this spool is what pushs up on the hook mechanism on the clamp bracket that grabs the tilt pin to keep motor from tilting up in reverse. Just make sure all those parts are there and installed correctly.
You need to understand that when the lower slides on three things are lining up, the driveshaft splines, the shift shaft splines and the water tube. the watertube is the easiest as it has the long white guide tube to facilitate that going into place. Just make sure the rubber grommet in the waterpump housing is there and oiled so the tube will slip in and seal. The driveshaft splines will not engage into the crank if the clock position is off. Sometimes you need to rotate the crank when installing. I find it easiest to remove the plugs and the top cowl so I can rotate the flywheel just a smidge to try and get the splines clocked. Lastly the shift shaft splines need to be clocked, you can do this by wiggling the lever on the side of the motor corresponding the the shift. You apply up pressure on the lower unit till the shift lines up then wiggle the crank till the drive splines line up. When all goes up in, if the lower is in neutral the shift shaft should be detented in neutral also. You should be able to snap the shift lever into forward and neutral and reverse although sometimes it jams because the parts are not rotating as they would when motor is idling, so turning the crack helps when moving the shift lever on the motor. Neutrl prop spins freely, forwward prop will "click" when rotated and in reverse it will rotate slightly in each direction hitting a hard stop. The shift dogs for reverse and forward are different internal to the lower hence the difference. Motor whould tilt up freely in forward but when shifted into neutral or reverse it should not tilt up.
If all this is OK then time to install the cables. Shift motor into neutral, listen for the detent, spin prop freely to check. Move driver control lever to neutral this has yet another neutral detent click. Now thread the barrel on the motor end of the cable to line up the fixed mount cable end and the lever stem that the barrel slides onto so the cable matches the spacing on the motor. the throttle cable should be adjusted the same way except the length should match the fixed mount to the throttle lever stem WHEN THE DISTRIBUTOR IS AGAINST THE IDLE STOP SCREW on that front plate with the three screws near the distributor. This insures the throttle forces the distributor to sit against that stop screw, a slight preload is OK, to much will be hard shifting. If you need ot adjust the idle stop screw then the cable will need to be readjusted too maintaining correct slight preload.
I hope this helps some, it's hard to explain in words. I have mastered both the Pre 64 and post 64 setups for this proceedure, it's a little different for each. Once set up the lower can be dropped for impellor service and reinstalled easily if NOTHING is disturbed when replaceing the impellor.
Good luck,
Randy

Frank,
Thanks for the reply!
Pete

vuyosevich wrote:

frank, since i'm taking the truck i'll have a bunch of tools too. my dialysis has been changed to 5:00fri. afternoon so i'll be at the cottage till 3:30, and be back around 10:00. really messes up my day.
oh well.......

What cottage?

by tim's house. don't know exactly where till i get the keys from tim, but its on his block.

63g3 wrote:

Frank there are a bunch of adjustments you might need to do where everything allignment wise has been disrupted by complete disassembly.
First a question, are you able to move the shift lever all the way forward to where the lever is at least parallel to the floor or does it stop before then? YESIf throttle does not advance than it may be a sign that the high idle shift lock out is misadjusted which is too hard to explain here. The manual does explain it although generally this never needs touching as long as it is still at factory adjustment.
Anyways, on the early GearShift motors it is easiest to do all this with the cables disconnected from the motor, the lower in Neutral which detents in the lower unit.I believe the motor is in neutral, and the cables are disconnected.
The shift shaft on the motor also has a neutral detent, look under the bottom carb, there is a cresent shaped arm with a groove that a spring clicks into make sure the spring is clicked into the center groove if there is more than one groove. See pic, is this what you mean? If so, there is no spring that I can see. We will worry about connecting the control cables and getting those adjusted later.
In the lower unit there is a reverse and neutral locking mechanism so the motor does not tilt up when put in reverse. Rather than explain here make sure those pieces are correctly placed by looking at pictures in the manual.I put PT&T on this motor, so took out that stuff. There is also a thread spool shaped piece of plastic that slides over the shift shaft splined sleeve at the bottom of the driveshaft housing, I use grease to hold this in place, this spool is what pushs up on the hook mechanism on the clamp bracket that grabs the tilt pin to keep motor from tilting up in reverse. Just make sure all those parts are there and installed correctly.
You need to understand that when the lower slides on three things are lining up, the driveshaft splines, the shift shaft splines and the water tube. the watertube is the easiest as it has the long white guide tube to facilitate that going into place. Just make sure the rubber grommet in the waterpump housing is there and oiled so the tube will slip in and seal. The driveshaft splines will not engage into the crank if the clock position is off. Sometimes you need to rotate the crank when installing. I find it easiest to remove the plugs and the top cowl so I can rotate the flywheel just a smidge to try and get the splines clocked. Lastly the shift shaft splines need to be clocked, you can do this by wiggling the lever on the side of the motor corresponding the the shift. You apply up pressure on the lower unit till the shift lines up then wiggle the crank till the drive splines line up. When all goes up in, if the lower is in neutral the shift shaft should be detented in neutral also. You should be able to snap the shift lever into forward and neutral and reverse although sometimes it jams because the parts are not rotating as they would when motor is idling, so turning the crack helps when moving the shift lever on the motor. Neutrl prop spins freely, forwward prop will "click" when rotated and in reverse it will rotate slightly in each direction hitting a hard stop. The shift dogs for reverse and forward are different internal to the lower hence the difference. Motor whould tilt up freely in forward but when shifted into neutral or reverse it should not tilt up.
If all this is OK then time to install the cables. Shift motor into neutral, listen for the detent, spin prop freely to check. Move driver control lever to neutral this has yet another neutral detent click. Now thread the barrel on the motor end of the cable to line up the fixed mount cable end and the lever stem that the barrel slides onto so the cable matches the spacing on the motor. the throttle cable should be adjusted the same way except the length should match the fixed mount to the throttle lever stem WHEN THE DISTRIBUTOR IS AGAINST THE IDLE STOP SCREW on that front plate with the three screws near the distributor. This insures the throttle forces the distributor to sit against that stop screw, a slight preload is OK, to much will be hard shifting. If you need ot adjust the idle stop screw then the cable will need to be readjusted too maintaining correct slight preload.
I hope this helps some, it's hard to explain in words. I have mastered both the Pre 64 and post 64 setups for this proceedure, it's a little different for each. Once set up the lower can be dropped for impellor service and reinstalled easily if NOTHING is disturbed when replaceing the impellor.
Good luck,
Randy

I stopped after the crescent shaped thing. There is no spring on mine, if I'm looking at the right thing. Is this my problem? I get you on most of the rest of this stuff. I put on new cables and followed the manual exactly. Everything worked fine after that. My problem right now results from something I did or didn't do when I replaced the impeller. Having said that, I understand the detents, how they work, where things are, etc.

Let me know what you think, and thank you very much.

Frank

I installed a new primer bulb because I wasn't getting gas to the carbs anymore. Figured it was an old bulb, and maybe that was my problem. Put the new one on and squeezed, and squeezed, and squeezed, and squeezed, and by the time my hand was cramping up, nothing. No pressure in the bulb, no gas coming out the carbs, nothing. It's like I'm pumping the gas someplace else, but where? Same tank I've been using with the motor for the last year, vent cap is open, everything else is tight.

I'm done for the night with the motor anyways. I could maybe play with it some in the early a.m., but tomorrow night I need to get stuff ready for the trip over to Silver Lake Friday.

Frank

frank , i have to squeeze my bulb forever on first start up. it is also fairly new. ron

Hey buddy is that a metal tank or a plastic tank ? I have seen where this "new" gas has eaten the pick up hose and turned it into something like overcooked pasta then it melts away , get a flash light and take a peek inside see if the pick up hose is still there , if its a metal merc tank with those round push in and 1/4 turn connectors the o rings can and do go bad creating a vacuum leak ... just for reference the lower unit has NOTHING to do with it startin or not ! you can take it off and throw it over the bank and still start it ! ya got spark so its most likely a fuel issue . squirt some gas in the carbs and see if it pops ...a brief over rev wont kill a motor

I am sure the arrow on the primer bulb is pointing toward the motor yes? Connectors are inserted and twist locked? Hose clamps are secure and not over torqued?
Check the fuel pick up in the tank as suggested

I got some gas/oil mix in a spray bottle, I could try spraying the carbs in the mornin. The tank is newly full, hard to check, but I could pour the gas into another tank. Good suggestions, thanks. Obviously, I agree about this being fuel-related at this point.

Yes to all those good questions Jim.

Drag the newly charged battery out to the boat at first light, hook it up. Get some fuel/oil mix in a spray bottle. Remove the front cover and big cowl. Get up in the boat with the control box sitting on the back side of the splashwell, easy to turn the key, set the idle control lever up, shoot a bunch of gas into each carb, try and start it. Rrr, rrr, rrr, rrr, pop, rrr, rrr, rrr, rrr, rrr, rrr, pop, rrr, rrr, rrr, pop, etc. All the while this is going on, with my hand turning the key on and off, I continue to spray gas into the carbs. Same response.

So i get my plug wrench and remove the plugs. They look great, nice and dark, but dry and hardly any smell to them, let alone gas. So while I'm doing this I spray a bit of mix in each cylinder (all except for #6), get back in the boat, spray the carbs, start again. Same response, maybe more violent. Actually get fire out of the mid-section exhaust on one of the "pops". It's like the timing is way off.

Having said that, I am at the limit of my mechanical abilities. I wrapped it up, nearly burning my hand on the starter as I secured the bonnet's 4 studs. I brought in my tools, then brought in the battery for another charge. I sure drained it good this a.m., and it's a brand new battery.

I do not have time to do anything more on the motor until we get to Silver Lake. I have my hands full with some other problems, and need to prepare for the trip tomorrow. I need to re-pack the trailer bearings, pack the truck, figure out what tools I'm gonna bring, stuff like that, and deal with some other issues.

Here I thought my boat was done, I could go boating and get to other things that need to get done. Heaven forbid! Instead this motor just keeps consuming my time in the most unproductive manner. This is a good example of how to go from a great working motor to a dud in less than a week.

Enjoy yer day all, I got to get to work so I can keep paying all my bills.

Frank

don't know how the timing could be off since you never touched it. maybe i'm wrong..i'm far from a mechanic. i still think it will be somethin simple. see ya tomorrow frank...we are leaving now.

I just don't know what else to think of try Ron. It seems like a timing problem, but how could it be? Belts don't jump - if they do, they break. My belt is fine. I haven't fooled with the distributor since Tim got the old motor going years ago. I am completely befuddled.

I hope it's something simple, but I have a funny feeling it's not gonna be.

Have a safe trip. We'll be heading to the motel I guess 1st, then what?

Frank

Dear Lord of All Things Merc and 2-Stroke
Please bring your Merc-iful blessings upon Mr Alguire and his esteemed 1963 Merc 1K. Let all good Mercoholics adorn him as he arrives safely to the great Silver Lake Meet to clear the challenges brought upon him over the course of the last week! Please allow that the next series or photos and or videos we see are of the Power Cat rrrrrrrrrraging sprightly across the lake at great speed with a great white rooster tail plume.


Simply put oh great Lord..........CUT HIM SOME %^*(#)**U%^KING SLACK!!!!!!!!!!!



Amen!

Little Jim

You're okay Jim, thanks man! I need somebody to cut me some slack!

Frank

I'm not saying NUTTI'N

g3jim wrote:

Dear Lord of All Things Merc and 2-Stroke
Please bring your Merc-iful blessings upon Mr Alguire and his esteemed 1963 Merc 1K. Let all good Mercoholics adorn him as he arrives safely to the great Silver Lake Meet to clear the challenges brought upon him over the course of the last week! Please allow that the next series or photos and or videos we see are of the Power Cat rrrrrrrrrraging sprightly across the lake at great speed with a great white rooster tail plume.


Simply put oh great Lord..........CUT HIM SOME %^*(#)**U%^KING SLACK!!!!!!!!!!!



Amen!

Little Jim

Amen

I got to the boat launch early this a.m. Only other one there was Tim Calmes. He diagnosed the problem within minutes, went to his shop and picked up a few things, and I just got back from boating. What had happened was I sheared the key at the flywheel end of the crank. Put a new one in with a "new" flywheel and went boating. More later.

Frank

That's fantastic to hear, thanks for the update Frank!

BYE BYE MURPHY !!!!!!!

FRANK thanks for the update I was really hoping you got er fixed!

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAMEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks guys! Not much of an internet connection here, but I just wanted to express my appreciation and thanks to all of you who offered help, advice, suggestions, encouragements and prayers. What a great bunch we have here.

You've never really had boating fun till you've taken a ride in a Power Cat. What an amazingly fun little boat! We dealt with a lot of waves and chop, but had a great time. Got a little wet, but hey, it's a boat! Man o man, talk about turning on a dime!

We get home later today, we'll have some pics and maybe some video.

Thanks again!

Frank

FRANK
O.K. we all need to be rewarded for the effort! Don't hold back POST the pic's. I think I will sleep better tonight just knowing you had some fun with your hard fought project.
Hope to see some pic's / video soon
Pete

Can't wait to se the pics & video Frank. What a long project journey you've had. Sorry I didn't get to Silver Lake this year again... maybe next year.

I bet all the visitors to the park we're drooling over your boat. Perhaps it was the candycane motor cover that made them salivate, but I suspect more likely it was the obvious attention to detail you gave to that boat. Blood, sweat and tears are an understatement. You've perservered even with mutiple physical challenges (back/shoulder etc) that would have made others quit long ago. Congrats!

Sorry guys, just got home and looked through the videos and pics that were taken, none really what I want to put up. Give me a little time, I'll have some good ones soon. I just need to take control. I was more concerned with getting the boat going, then dealing with the trim. By the time I got the shift handle trim mounted, all we did was enjoy the ride and the cameras got left at the dock!

4 hour drive through torrential rain and wind. I'm gonna go take a nap...

Frank

PC1000 wrote:

Sorry guys, just got home and looked through the videos and pics that were taken, none really what I want to put up. Give me a little time, I'll have some good ones soon. I just need to take control. I was more concerned with getting the boat going, then dealing with the trim. By the time I got the shift handle trim mounted, all we did was enjoy the ride and the cameras got left at the dock!

4 hour drive through torrential rain and wind. I'm gonna go take a nap...

Frank

Here is one of Frank and Mrs. Frank in the Power Cat at Silver Lake:

cc1000 Thank You,
I would bet that Mr. and Mrs. Frank was smilling from ear to ear.
Pete

Thanks Dave, and yeah Pete, still can't get the grin off my face. Pretty sure it was there thru the nite too!

Still got some shake down stuff to do. It will take me a while (depending on the weather) to get this baby sorted out the way I want. I want some nice calm water, and a couple full tanks of gas to play with.

Frank

Frank wrote:

I want some nice calm water, and a couple full tanks of gas to play with.

Don't we all, buddy! LOL Gail makes a great first mate, hauling in the fenders, checking the Merc., videoing the captain. You two make a great team!

Yeah, well we had boats for years Mark, but sold the last one more than 10 years ago, a 21' I/O cuddy cabin. I've pretty much always been the skipper and Gail the 1st mate, and she knows as soon as we drift from dock the 1st thing that happens is the boat fenders come inside! The video part didn't come out so great as she got concerned holding on for dear life.

Frank

Frank sure is nice to see the boat in the water looks soooo good
it was worth all the work hope to see all the refinements so keep
the post coming
Charles

Thanks Charles. I'm still pinchin my self.

I did some "hidden" stuff tonight. Put on a correct merc crank nut on the top of the motor, and hid my new shift handle trim switch wires. New seats should be here soon, and I'm still trying to figure out a rear seat. One of my summer projects is to replace most of my trailer hardware with stainless too. I also have an old boat trailer I want to restore. Too many projects, not enough time. But it is great to have this boat on the water just the way she is! Can't wait to get out in it again.

Frank