TOPIC: 60 hp Chrysler Help

Hello All!

I picked up a great fiberglassic lately. What I believe to be a 1959 Cutter Como or Skier. Pic are posted in the main forum.

To my disbelief, the engine, which I have determined is a Chrysler 60 hp from 1974 or 75 runs beautifully. I put it on the water for grins a few days ago and the boat is tight and no water comes in anywhere. The folks I bought it from knew nothing about the boat so I'm on my own to figure it out. I'm new to the outboard boating game but have a reasonable amount of mechanical knowledge from other motion related endeavors.

I have 2 questions to get me going. Since the motor runs great and the boat floats, I think we are gonna make the restoration a winter project. The only problem I ran into is that at idle or very slow speeds, the temperature came up very quickly, but went down very quickly when I came up to about 1800 or greater RPM. Is this normal, or do I need a fresh impeller/water pump for cooling?

Second, are the 60 hp (mine is a 608HA) and the 55 hp motors basically the same thing? The service manual I have lists the bore and stroke as identical, but the 60 hp is rated to a higher RPM to develop the additional 5 hp. This will help in finding parts for the thing, as is seems that no place lists parts specifically for the 60 hp.

Thanks in advance to all you knowledgeable folks

It's great that you've established that it's a runner JD, a couple things I always do before putting one in service;

Definitely replace the impeller and lower unit gear lube. The rubber gets brittle and "set" with time, if a chunk breaks off and lodges in the cooling passages it can fry your motor in no time. Cheap insurance to replace it now. Inspect the gear lube you are draining, any signs of shiny flecks (metal) or milky (water intrusion) mean you'll want to service the gearcase before using the motor.

I always service the carburetors with a good cleaning and fresh gasket kits, adjusting floats, etc.. Starving a two stroke from fuel at speed = disaster. This is also a good time to replace all rubber fuel lines. It just isn't worth taking a chance. They break down from the inside first, a piece of rubber getting caught in the fuel system ends your day quickly.

Unless the motor has been re-mounted and the mounting bolts sealed recently, I'd definitely pull them and re-seal with 3M's 4200, Boaters Life Caulk, or something similar designed for marine use. Very often whatever was used originally to seal those holes has dried up and cracked, allowing water to get into your transom, bilge, etc.. You don't even have to pull the motor, just re-seal the holes.

Just a few things that come to mind, others may be able to provide more help. Hope it goes well sir, happy boating!

Definitely check the impeller. You might also want to inspect the thermostat if replacing the impeller doesn't solve your cooling issues.

Looks like there are some common parts between the Chrysler Big Twins, you can look up parts here:

www.marineengine.com/parts/sierra-marine/chrysler-force.html

I also found a site selling an original parts manual, that might help:

vintageboatparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60&products_id=2221

HTH.........ed

Ed and Mark,

Thanks for the advice. I will look at all the things that you both mentioned.

As far as finding the parts, I went to the marine engine site and when I select the impeller kits link, there is no listing for the 60 hp, so I need to figure out which engines have the common parts so I can look it up. I ordered the parts manual as well.

The ebay item id given is invalid, no result has been sentLooks like the 60hp impeller might not be widely used. I did find one at boat.net, listed for various newer years of 60hp, maybe it's the same as yours:

www.boats.net/parts/detail/merc/M-F474065-1.html

You'll find a couple of 60hp models in the 1984 Force/Chrysler query:

www.boats.net/parts/search/Merc/Force/1984/parts.html

If your lower unit looks like the one on the '84, I'd expect that it takes the same impeller. Chrysler didn't do a heck of a lot of updating, many parts were used for many years, even into the mid-90's. But the 60 was apparently quite the oddball, so any unique parts might be harder to get hold of.

Here's a few on eBay:



The newer 6-vane impeller replaced a 10-vane impeller, so don't be concerned about the difference if your motor should still happen to have a 10-vane in there. The new 6-vane will pump just fine.

When you get your parts book, you'll be able to verify the original part number. I expect it'll be a 474065, since pretty much all Merc did to categorize the old Chrysler/Force parts when they took over, was to add F's and M's to the old part number. The "dash" after the part number, as I recall, shows any upgrades that were made to the part. In this case, the "-1" denotes one change from the original (the 6-vane update).

HTH........ed

Ed,

This is exactly the info I was looking for regarding the part numbers. You are also correct that the part number on the impeller is the 474065 according to the parts manual. Now that I know how the updated numbers work, I can order without guessing.

I originally figured for the price I got the boat at, the motor would be junk at best, so to be able to have a summer of fun with the kids is icing on the cake.

Thanks again so much for all the help and information.

I am heading to the lake this week with my 3rd Chrysler, a 55hp. I have found them to be very reliable and one of the easier outboards to work on as far as tuning and service. Simple carbs, simple fuel pumps. Fuel hoses, fuel pump kit and clean the carb just for good measure. Good boating.
Hugh

The Impellers tend to shrink as they age in that year range for some reason so it can look good but not have a seal on the top and bottom though the tips of the vanes look good. The fuel pump diafram will need replacing, they get stiff as a potato chip rather quickly. Fortuitously all the bits to maintain it are still available. I use EBay a lot for parts. Pull your T-stat and give it the ole stove top test. No need to replace it if it works ok. You really should check the points (assuming its points triggered) setting, timing to throttle sync and base timing. The higher hp (55-60) twins tend to erode pistons if the timing is advanced, fuel is old, or carb issues make it run lean. Because of their higher compression and RPM to get those few extra hp. They are a solid motor if taken care of will last about forever.

Thanks for all the great info.

I came across a video online that mentioned that exact phenomena about the impellers shrinking and the symptoms were exactly what I have experienced so I bet you are right on the money.

It does list a CD ignition module and some timing related to that, but as a result, no points.

I haven't had a chance to get one ordered yet, but plan on it soon.

The service manual for the motor mentions all sorts of special tools for different service projects. Are any of these going to really be necessary?

For instance, it lists a drive shaft seal installer for the water pump replacement. I haven't torn it apart yet, but I'm assuming I won't need to remove the drive shaft seal to just change the impeller. I am guessing an appropriately sized socket would work in place of the special tool as well if need be. Just curious with not having torn into yet.

Thanks again everyone!

Special tools are nice if you have 'em, but as you surmised a well-placed socket can be used to drive-in a new seal just as well as the factory tool. Some things you just about can't do without the special tool, but pump servicing ain't one of 'em!

And unless you're getting water in the lower unit, no need to change the driveshaft seal unless you really want to.

The impeller is fully accessible for servicing once you pull the upper pump housing.

The pump body looks quite the complex casting, IMHO I'd leave it alone unless you find a leak.....ed

The twins with the 1st generation Magnapower did have points that triggered the CD box. Set to .015". The only thing that wears is the points rubbing block. I put a few drops of Teflon oil on the wick. Which really needs to barely touch the top of the cam as it goes by.

Thanks!

Again, I haven't actually torn anything apart yet, but at least looking through the service manual, it shows a trigger module, but it doesn't appear to be adjustable and doesn't mention it in the manual either.

I think my motor is a '74 or 75. Would this fall in the 1st generation you are mentioning?

Yes it is. My 74 45hp Chrysler twin has the points triggered CD box also. BTW. Its common for the ignition on these to quit when the points rubbing block wears to the point the points are not opening hardly at all. Clean, set, oil the wick and bingo the spark is back.