TOPIC: '66 Golden Meteor 100hp

I decided to get rid of my old seahorse. So while I am tweaking the Homelite I scored this Golden Meteor 100 cheap. The good is that I did get it to fire up.....this is the motor just prior to the pulse pack ignition, and the compression is 120 in all cyl. The bad is that the only way to keep it running is to squirt a bit of gas down the carb barrels. I got the carb apart and it was a bit dirty so i gave it a good cleaning and blew out the passages but are there any secrets with the carb/fuel system on this thing? I converted to electric fuel pump so that shouldn't be the issue. I figured before I slap it back together I figured I'd ask.

Figured I'd give a bit of an update. I did get it to fire up and it sounds pretty good. Ill try to post a video tomorrow. But two problems i am encountering, and to my dismay they are similar to the issue with the old sea-horse. At low idle after it warms up i get an intermittent misfire. Could the voltage supressor be at fault? Or am I overlooking something else? I checked the points and they are at .020, the coil is new and it has new wires. The other issue it is extremely hard to start, much harder than the old motor. Any ideas?

It may be related to your electric fuel pump - a dangerous idea on an outboard! I would go back to the pulse pump that it came with - rebuild kits are available for them.

Also could be ignition related. Is it an electronic ignition or battery fired magneto? Magneto could be a bad coil or condenser breaking down once it gets warm.

I will switch back to the pulse pump and give that a try. Just out of curiosity why is the electric pump a bad call on an outboard? I rebuilt the old one already so it should be good to go. It is the battery ignition type. I replaced the coil already, and the condenser is new as well. So I am at a loss. I am used to rebuilding car engines but working on 2-strokes is new to me. It just seems that it must be something electrical.

I will switch back to the pulse pump and give that a try. Just out of curiosity why is the electric pump a bad call on an outboard? I rebuilt the old one already so it should be good to go. It is the battery ignition type. I replaced the coil already, and the condenser is new as well. So I am at a loss. I am used to rebuilding car engines but working on 2-strokes is new to me. It just seems that it must be something electrical.

My family had the equivalent Evinrude for many years and it also was hard to start. Make sure the battery cables are secured tightly - some recommend lock nuts- and that both cables and terminals are clean of any corrosion. This will ensure less resistance, greater voltage getting to the starter. Another thing to check is the choke. '67 and prior have an automatic hot-air actuated choke which functions by the expansion of a bimetal spring to fully open the choke at operating temperatures. On a cold engine, this spring should hold the choke partially closed (this can be adjusted). The choke solenoid is activated by a push-button mounted with the ignition switch. If the solenoid is operable, the solenoid's plunger entirely withdraws into the solenoid and the choke entirely closed when the button is pressed.

See the following link for an interesting thread with much information:
fiberglassics.com/glassic-forums/j-e-g-o-s-place/evinrude-starflite-100-s-ob-advice#2571

Also, I went ahead and added an outboard troubleshooting guide to the Classic Boat Library which may be of some value:
www.fiberglassics.com/library/Outboard_Service_Tips

Just out of curiosity why is the electric pump a bad call on an outboard?

Fire! In and accident, or an engine fire, the electric pump will continue pumping gas as long as it's getting juice. (NASCAR and several other racing sanctioning bodies don't allow them for the same reason.) A mechanical pump quits pumping when the engine shuts down, but the electric variety will continue to feed the gas until there is no more (DC) power available to run it.