TOPIC: transom repair material?

Has anyone worked with a pourable compound to fill the space where removed rotten wood leaves a hollow between the inner and outer fiberglass walls? I see Seacast on youtube, and now this Arjay pourable ceramic polyester compound, with exothermic temperature control. It doesn't get so hot that it cracks, it is light weight, $50/gal which would fill a 30x24x1.5 in cavity... the website says it is used extensively to restore plywood transoms . .. Anybody have any experience with this stuff?

well i havent used the new stuff, i used seacast . i was very scared because i t was a little pricey and if i screwed up all was lost. but i studied up on it, and the guy at seacast was always right there . walked me through a couple of dry runs i memorized the instruction sheet haha and it worked just as advertised you mix the fiber with the mix make a trough and pour it rubber hammer the bubbles out. and let it set. it bonds to itself . easy to work with i looked at nidabond but i kept coming back to seacast. make sure you clean the inside of the skins real good get as much wood off as you can and rough it up with a little sandpaper and clean it real good i drilled holes in the top of the deck and used a gallon milk jug cut off to pour for the wings . then cleaned up. the heat really wasn't a problem it got warm but not what i would say hot to the touch. like concrete now. oh and make sure to keep the integrity of the transom the way you want it. when you start there wont be any time to make adjustments

I used Seacast,had to fabricate new inner and outer skins as the entire transom was in pieces. Sabine walked me through the process. She will stress that she wants all of the old wood out. Here is the video recap www.dropbox.com/s/6kmvby4jew1ktp3/L%20%26%20S%20Part%20I.mp4?dl=0\

To me, it's patching, not repairing. I would have used marine plywood layers screwed together/sandwiched with 5200 and sealed with CPES prior to fiber-glassing...but that's just me.

Jan,
What is your opinion of the gray composite panels?
I can't think of the specific name of the composite, but can identify if if needed.
I realize this is a pretty lame-o post with out that information, so if you guys go,..."WTF?" I am not offended.
I have scheduled a guy to come and "sealed cell" foam my little 11'4" 'sport C tunnel boat'.
Ideally this will make the the super light weight hull a bit heavier, but much more rigid.
So-o-o,...(2) issues involved,...
What is the name of the composite? (if requested I can get)
What is your opinion to a "closed cell" attempt to stiffen up the very lightly laid up hull?

Nautilus wrote: To me, it's patching, not repairing. I would have used marine plywood layers screwed together/sandwiched with 5200 and sealed with CPES prior to fiber-glassing...but that's just me.

Amen Jan. Whatever someone wants to use is their decision. Wondering if the transom in those pictures is supposed to have that outward curve. Had to be a pain for the manufacturer to bend the original plywood to fit. Hmmmmm.......

Interesting discussion on the iboat site .
forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-repair-and-restoration/boat-restoration-building-and-hull-repair/232973-replacing-curved-transom

Being a "wood man," old school and incredibly resistant to change, you can imagine that my experience with new ideas is extremely limited. For that reason, I really have no idea what you're talking about regarding those panels.

When I re-do stringers, framework and decking, I always fill each cavity with 2lb/2 part foam. It stiffens things considerably and actually gives solid support to the decking plywood.

I "re-floored" a 1966 Larson All-American. It had the most paper-thin hull I've ever run across...so thin that we had to work upside down from planks laid across the gunwhales. Any weight on the bottom at all distorted it way out of shape. Anyway, after the stringers were installed, we loaded her up with foam that was then cut flush with the stringers. That made the hull close to rock solid. So based upon those results, I would say that yes, foam would definitely stiffen a transom...if it were thick enough... and was held in place from both sides...as in a panel?

But like I said, I really have no experience with foam panels. I'm married to wood...a 50-year+ love affair. A divorce is unthinkable. Besides, I've never been a gambler so I only ever bet on the sure thing.

I did a transom on a 20' Lema center console with Seacast. I had to brace the inner and outer skins 'cause the stuff expands as it cures. Expensive and a PIA to use. Never again...
Larry

rocketman wrote: Has anyone worked with a pourable compound to fill the space where removed rotten wood leaves a hollow between the inner and outer fiberglass walls? I see Seacast on youtube, and now this Arjay pourable ceramic polyester compound, with exothermic temperature control. It doesn't get so hot that it cracks, it is light weight, $50/gal which would fill a 30x24x1.5 in cavity... the website says it is used extensively to restore plywood transoms . .. Anybody have any experience with this stuff?

How's that transom repair working out??

Hey,
I'm glad you asked! Well, actually it is on the back burner due to repainting the sailboat bottom and getting it ready for the whole season, some stuff has to get done before it is in the water. Most of the work is done, so I can start to think about the Rocket again. I like the poured compound technique, (not Seacast, but the Arjay 6011) but getting the old plywood out may be too tough. I thought using a sodium hydroxide solution (lye) might soften the wood up so it could be scooped out after drilling some holes to pour it into and letting it soak a week or two. I have a piece of wood and fiberglass soaking in draino now to determine the effects on each. ( I was trained as a chemist, now i'm a mad scientist you know...). Otherwise, I have had some experience working with fiberglass, but will have to study some more to do a good job on the boat. I did put some new tires on the trailer, so hopefully we can meet up at Kosh! And my buddy Brian saw you have the blue one for sale, Hows that going?

Sold the blue on last August and the Door County boat show.

Coosa board is the composite. I'm thinking of using it on a few lumies I have.