TOPIC: Help with Bow Lift Ring

Am working on a series of small cosmetic and structural fiberglass/gelcoat repairs to the interior of the hull. Have a running thread in the 70s Disco-fiber section under 1971 Glasspar Newport Cruiser.





One of the more involved projects is the removal and replacement of floatation foam in the bow. No drain tube was installed when the foam was poured in the boat. Any water that gets in there, sits on top the foam until it evaporates, or some appears to slowly drip out the Bow Lift Ring holes. This is causing the ring to corrode and creates a rust colored drip line stain to form. The foam I've removed so far is bone dry. I'd like to install a small piece of PVC that will let water drain to the bilge and reapply the foam. Any thoughts on 2 lb vs 6 lb replacement foam?





The bigger issue I need your advice on relates to the eye reinforcing block inside the hull. The original one appears to be made of wood and the top portion either cracked and fell off or rotted away. This further traps water and holds it until it slowly drips out the eye bolts holes. Would you create a new block from wood or another material? There are some wire loops attached to the block....any thoughts on their purpose? Anchor line attachment? Would you use 3M 4200 or 5200 to seal the eye hardware when reinstalling? The boats weighs ~2500lbs when loaded.....

I used 2lb when I rebuilt my Evinrude. Denser foam (6lb) will weigh more & costs more.

Regarding the wood block, wood is just fine again. Form it to fit the contour of the hull. I would use a ground glass mixed with polyester resin to make a thick paste bedding compound that will fill all voids & ensure 100% contact then glass over it too.
If that bow eye is the typical cheap variety, I would buy a nice 3/8" stainless one piece loop style.
I have no idea what the wire rings are for.

Thanks Jim....appreciate the advice. I'll likely bed the block in with Total Boat Structural Repair Putty which I believe is the canned version of polyester peanut butter.

As inspired by you, I recently purchased a quart of grey bilge paint!

My wife and children are now pressing me to get this done so it can be used next summer. Still have a ways to go......

I'm just offering some speculation / observation here. To me it looks like the entire wood block is still present, because you can see resin filled in around the top of it. I think we are just looking at a sloppy work by Glasspar to not properly locate the block to gain full engagement on the bolts / washers. It might be an improvement to make an aluminum plate to fit the space with holes drilled for the through bolts, if there's enough length on the bolts to still get washers and nuts on the back of the plate. The wires look like an assembly aid to position the wood block while it's being glassed in. Once the resin was set, they just pounded them over to flatten them.

IMHO Just grind that entire mess out of there, make a new wood backing block and install a new stainless eye. Why take a chance on patching something that could just fail again. Remember that bow ring also holds you ride on the trailer when you're ripping down the highway.

www.boatoutfitters.com/media/catalog/product/2/6/260-2287.jpg?quality=80&bg-color=255,255,255&fit=bounds&height=88&width=88&canvas=88:88

Thanks both 63Sabre and Airguide for the comments and direction. I took Jimandros advice and cut the old block out using a Fien oscilating tool. Using a slide hammer, pulled the corroding wire out of the epoxy bed. Grabbed a die grinder and metal burr to grind the epoxy away and down to the glass. Think Dentist drilling a tooth. Took some patience. Made a new block and applied several coats of polyester resin, then bedded it in Total Boat polyester structural repair puddy. My 7/16" chrome eye cleaned up pretty well. Am going to purchase stainless fender washers. I'll post the whole saga on my boat restoration blog in the 70s Disco-Fiber once I finish replacing the floatation foam.

Sounds like you did your usual thorough job! Nicely done.