TOPIC: QUESTION How to shine up a faded metallic finish?

I have A 1966 Pittcraft 16' deep "V" ski boat that is in great over all shape. The rear 18" on the sides has a metallic finish that is a bit faded. In the past I oiled it to bring out the shine but now I just want it to shine and not fade off, the rest of the finish on the boat is fine. I wet sanded the area with 400 grit paper and its now smooth. Can I use an automotive clear coat on top to make it shiney. How can I bring out the blue color and shine it up? Were only talking 6 square feet total here. I taped part of the hull off so I can seal around the aluminum rub rail and when I removed the blue tape a little metallic stuck on the tape. Not even close enough to damage anything but it needs to be sealed. For fun I sprayed a few sguare inches with lacquer to see how that would look, it looks shiney but not the dark color shine im looking for. I know you cant use lacquer on a boat, Ill sand it off, no big deal but just wanted to see how it looks. I plan on keeping this hull for maby 1 more year then the motors coming off and going on my g3 and my friend has dibbs on this hull. Its built for speed. Ill post pics later on. Thanks for any comments, Mike

im not an expert,crosbyboat or heather,among others will be able to tell you better then me,but if you try a clearcoat ,i would use a high solids urethane clear,but its a bit pricey,but wont scratch as easily.

Mike, Rick here. I sell automotive refinishes and It
looks like your boat is heavy metal flake gelcoat.
even if it's not,and its a single stage metalic
without a clearcoat,if its faded or chocked out,
a coat of clear won,t bring out the color.Sanding the
metalic will only scratch it.If its chocked you must
repaint it bring back the factory fresh look. You
can use automotive urethane clears.Single stage urethane
is also a good choice.My Lake&Sea was done in BaseCoat
with urethane clear.

Good Luck
Rick

rick,im planing on doing the same, i just went yesterday to get prices on basecoat/clearcoat,i have done many cars with it,but this is the 1st time im going to use a hvlp gun,do you have any tips for me,im used to a siphon gun,but i wore it out and got hvlp,thanks john

John just make sure you don't tip the gun to much or you will have paint comingout the top, Also its a good idea to put masking tap on the top as a safty measure till you get used to the gun. Hvlp is a whole new world in pattern too so carefull on laying the paint on. Runs happen fast.

Mike once you have exposed the metalic in the gelcoat there is nothing you can do to bring it back. BUT this is a cheezy fix, get some blue tinting clear and put 2 coats on then 2 coats of clear and it will look close to what you had. Gelcoat replacement is the proper fix but the tinting clear will get you a couple of years atleast.

Suggest using a tinted clear urethane such as PPG Deltron or matrix urethane from www.matrixsystem.com/
We color tintcoat over faded metalflake frequently with excellent results.

John,hvlp gravity feed spray guns are great.
The balance of the gun in your hands is easy
to get use to.It won't spray inverted but can be pushed
a long way with practice.Very easy to adjust fluid and air
presure.If you use your ear to adjust air presure it
won't be the same with hvlp.Some of the hvlp spray
with 16 psi.Spraying at 40 psi maybe like spraying with
a fire hose. Read instuctions for gun setup.The paint store should have "P" sheets that will tell you the proper mixing, dry times,and air presures for all the different products you will need.B/C and clear, etc. Get a stand to hold gun on bench.Makes straining and filling cup easy.
They have great patterns.Prices are all over the board.Harbor Freight to
Devilbis,Sharpe,Sata $50 to $500.I shot my Lake&Sea with a
hvlp gravity feed.Hull was shot while laying on a creeper with
no drips.The key is just practice.

Hope this helped.

Rick

thanks haynes and thank you rick,yes it did help,like i said im not bad with a siphon gun,one of the cars i did even won a few 1st places at shows,but hvlp is compleatly new to me,my inlaws bought me a vaper 2 peice set,a 1.7mm primer gun and a 1.4 top coat gun,i plan on putting on the primer with the primer gun,and the color with the 1.4mm,then put the top coat on with a craftsman hvlp,im not sure of the mms on it.all 3 of the guns are brand new,so im hoping for a good finish.

by the way thats a beautiful lake and sea.

John, the 1.4 is a good B/C tip setup.
Some people use the same gun and tip setup
when clearing.Make sure gun is cleaned well
before clearing.I hate black specs in white base.
A 1.4 or 1.3 is the best setup B/C and Clear.
A 1.5 or bigger will not atomize the B/C or clear
as good and it could take off on you.

Thanks,I'm picking up a retro Tee Nee
from Wally next week. It should really
set off the look of the L&s

Rick