TOPIC: Russon: Do you have pics of.......

Pouring your transom on your Skagit?
Love to see any before/during/after shots you might have.
Thanks.

Here's some action shots, showing that we gave our keyboards a rest, exercised our control handles, and back to the keyboard to share them.

Fun to work on 'em, but boy does it revitalize ya to get out and take a cruise.
Pics are from near Deception Pass, WA state, saltwater.
Which we're surrounded by.

Thanks for sharing those pics Bill. That is some beautiful scenery you've got out there, the 'Glassics look even better with a background like that!

Crap! YES I do Bill. I totally forgot to send those. Would you like them posted here for all to see or would you like them sent directly? Perhaps posting them here would give info to others who may want to see them?

BILL,
After I replied, I did a search on the old Bonneville Fiberglassics forum and found the post I made with some pics. Here is the link.
forums.fiberglassics.com/bg/showmessage.asp?fm=Forum&messageID=53

I can also advise several things when getting ready to pour. On my skagit 20, there is of course no internal skin to use as a form. I had to create a plywood form and seal the entire perimeter to create an interior form. I used 3/8 plywood, but looking back I would use 1/2 inch. When you pour 10 gallons of goop into that void, the hydro-static pressure is significant. It also gives off major heat as it kicks. The form held, but I would say that stronger is better if you have to make a form. If you do have an interior skin, be sure it is supported on the interior side so the skin stays stiff while it kicks. I can say that after it kicked, and i went out the next day to inspect, i was AMAZED at the strength of that thing. After a few layers of heavy roving on the inside and the replacement of the stock transom knee that Skagit used, the thing is bulletproof and will never rot.

I'm interested in your link, but it does not work.
What is Bonneville Fiberglassics forum?

Try this one:

Old forum post


Back when FiberGlassics had chapters, Bonneville Glassics was the Utah-area chapter and had their own forum.

I did not know Seacast had competition.
I do like the idea of no more wood.
Thanks Andy for the link.

They do indeed. Nida Core builds a wide range of composite materials for use in many areas. Boats happen to be one of them. It worked very well for me. Sorry for the messed up link. THANKS for fixing that link.

Thanks a mil!
How did you pour the outboard corners? Was that a second operation?

I actually made the form run all the way up the sides of the transom, and I taped across the top of the outer skin and inner form with a heavy aluminum tape. The goop flowed up both sides to fill the void. I poured it in from each side so it would flow to the center. It flows very well, so i was not worried about any air bubbles in the center when filling it from each side. I had to use a funky home built funnel to pour it in. I had my son help me hold the funnel while I poured. It worked very well over all. The stuff sets up like a rock. Once it's glassed over, the thing is TOUGH!

The real key is being sure that if you have to use a form, it is a tough form. The pressure from the goop will push on that form in a big way. The other concern is being sure to seal all the way around really well. It WILL leak if there are any holes. I had one hole at the very bottom that I found, but i plugged it quickly and problem solved. Within about an hour or so that thing kicked and that was it.

I used a silicone release agent on the form so it would pop off easily. That's the bulk of it from what I recall. I'll be happy to pass along whatever I can. The rot proof transom is the way to go in my opinion. It is tough and will last forever once glassed in. The nice part is being able to drill holes in it, and never having to worry about water intrusion into the core.
I am also going to pour my bottom bulkhead in the hull. That will essentially remove all wood from below the deck. I hate rotted wood.