TOPIC: 50hp rotor removal

hi i have a 50hp ser#1962835 that i recently picked up. it has no spark i want to remove the rotor without damaging it, i thought i saw something a while ago saying to wrap a piece of string around it and pull it off. any advice would be appreciated.

2 small screw drivers in the corners and under the rotor pry evenly not too hard and it should come off with no problem. call me if needed.
Dave 1 914 310 7086

thanks dave, it came off pretty easy, i figured i would ask first, those things are pretty pricey these days. I cleaned the points and everything else in there put it back together and the old beast fired right up.

yeh don't want to break any of those parts. the only part to be replaced is the cap IF it is the green /black caps all other colors will clean up well.

I have repaired and rebuilt a number of the Kiekhaefer KD Series magnetos. I have some spare parts for them if you need something. Most common damage comes from forcing or over tightening screws on the Bakelite plastic components. This includes endcap, rotor and cover with any of the original parts. Later non-Bakelite plastic parts became available and are identifiable by the different colors of the plastic, usually gray or black. These are much less prone to chipping or cracking. Your magneto has the original Bakelite components.

I think they were gray and blue not black.

See my technique attached.
doc

Thanks Doc that's pretty slick. I did get it to fire but i have since found out that the lower unit that was given to me is not the correct one. my question is what year motors used the same lower unit, it seems like the 1966 needs a driveshaft that is an inch or so longer than the later lower units.

First thing we need to know is do you have a long shaft or short shaft?
Then,...
Do you have the original lower unit and can measure its driveshaft length from the top of the driveshaft to the top surface of the lower unit housing - not the water pump housing, on down to the top of the lower unit housing itself.
What is this measurement on the replacement one you have?
Armed with these details, I'll go see what I find on the rack.

I would like you to use a piece of straight round stock or ? that will fit up into the crankshaft and determine what that length is down to the top of the lower unit (or bottom surface of the driveshaft housing) {use a flashlight to insure you are inside the crankshaft}

and,...I'm wondering if you might not be getting the driveshaft aligned and actually up into the crankshaft - leaving you to believe things are not engaging because of the driveshaft length?? Very easy mistake to do for sure.
doc

ok i think I found the problem, it looks like the splines are stripped on the crankshaft. I did some measuring and comparing with some other lower units i have and after my third or fourth cup of coffee the light dawned. i'm going to pull the powerhead to verify.