TOPIC: PT&T conversion for my '63 1000

A while ago I bought this mid 80's PT&T unit (at least I think its a mid 80's) with the idea of mounting up my '63 1000. It was fairly striaght forward. Not a done deal yet but looking promising.

One thing I am pondering is the deletion of the shift lock shaft (that which locks the motor down when in other than forward gear - see the pic). Don;t need ti anymore so how do I close up the whole that would otherwise have the little boot for the shaft.

Now, the amazing part is that I figured out before I started that the PTT won't fit the transom, but since I had the motor apart for cleaning and new pan gaskets, why not see if it would work. I may be able to solve the transom fit issue by using spacers between the PTT and the transom, which would move the motor back about 2 inches. Pictures of that issue to follow.

And last concern. The PT&T is at least twice the weight of the orginal transom clamp/swivel unit is. My boat is already heavy out back.

Anyway - some pics....

Peter,
If you decide to go forward with use of the later power trim and you want to seal off that hole that the reverse lock link goes through,...
If you look up from the bottom end of the nid-housing you will see the bronze cast 'arm' that the reverse lock rod rests in and is attached to with the small spring.
You will see that there is a pin running horizontally port to starboard at the pivot point on the bronze link.
Using a punch - knock that pin out one side or the other to remove the bronze link at that end.
Remove a cotter pin from the top end of the reverse lock link at the hooks assembly and then you can remove the bronze, the round stock link, and spring.
The hooks will spring up out of the way.
You may need to remove one of the lower motor mount covers near to bottom outside towards the front of the mid-housing to give the pin room to exit.
Once all this is done you can probably score a rubber plug to fit the hole that the boot on the reverse lock link sealed up.
I don't believe the hole is perfectly round - seems like it is oval - but I'll bet there is something at LOWE'S or Home Depot that will fill the hole.
If not - no real harm in leaving the hole open other than it 'might' make a bit more exhaust noise up on plane - but I doubt you would notice the difference.
Thom
ps: I'm still dying to know why the later bracket won't fit on the Thompson.

OK so here is why the PT&T doesnt fit the transom of my '62 Thompson. The unit is too long, such that when resting on the top of the transom, the bottom board of the stern interferes with the bracket sitting flush with the transom. The bottom board is a structural component. As I said I knew this going forward but wanted to see how the anti cav plate on the lower would line up with the bottom of the boat (plus I couldnt resist seeing if the PTT unit would marry up to the '63's mid).



So I figured I could put a spacer between the transom and the bracket so that it was flush to the transom and of course through bolt the unit on. This is a test set up here



With the original set up the anit cav plate on the lower lined up exacty with the bottom of the hull. Note here that the anti cav now is about 1/2 inch to 3/4 of an inch high.





And I think the motor will be back farther off the transom, but only by a few inches. Here is a picture from the day I brought the boat home.



Here's my real concern. With the old set up, that bottom board is in the water (the water line is even with the top of the board). Add in that the PTT is well more than twice as heavy as the old bracket and so the boat will sit even lower. So the bottem three inches or so of that bracket will always be in the water, except at speed.

I suppose I could get an extension for the lower, then move the bracket up, but I dont really want to go through the cost and effort of sourcing one.

Thoughts?

Just put in the spacer Peter I think you will be fine. If you add the weight of the external tilt and trim motor and the hydraulic pistons you are about even-ish... Your cav plate a little above the bottom of the boat is OK you have a few inches to play with really before you need to think about low water pickup etc......
You are doing fine sir keep at it.

Peter,
I agree with Jim. Add a spacer on the aft side of the transom to make a flat surface for the entire transom assembly of the power trim.
You could make the added spacer out of a beautiful piece of mahogany or oak or teak.
You could make it so that in the future is desired it could be removed - no harm - no foul - to the beautiful Thompson.
If the cavitation plate is a 1/2" above the bottom of the transom it is at the height it should be set and could actually go up another 1/2" in a very conservative set up - such as your classic Thompson.
The later power trim like you have - that is all tucked in between the transom brackets on the outside of the transom - is so much better of a system than the '70s style with hoses and trim pump in the boat.
It is faster and has a greater angle of tilt that allows for the gear case to be totally out of the water on a mouring bouy if desired.
It is very common for this style power trim to have the bottom section of the assembly in the water at all times and it is designed to be partially submerged in the water 24-7.
I think that you have created a very slick set up and an excellent example of hpw to retro-fit Merc parts never intended to be mated up.

If someone comes by tomorrow I'll have them help me weigh the later power trim & transom mount assembly compared to a stock no power trim early 1000 transom assembly and report my findings.
Thom

No worries Thom on weighing the different brackets. What's pictured here is the main components bolted up to ensure fitment. I'll be taking it apart again to fully reassemble, put in a new impeller, etc. Might even paint the old girl. I'll weigh them then and report back to folks to satisfy the burning curiosity that I am sure is keeping every one up at night.

And I was thinking the same on the spacer. I nicely finished Mahogany spacer that is bolted on by way of the bracket bolts.