TOPIC: Merc Tilt & Trim set up

did 4hr hour (200mile) round trip today and picked up a Merc TT.
Seller said he installed new limiter switch, and got the original 3 button set up to work...
Wiring looks great..hoses well outer cracked and taped up but it does the job...these things are hard to run across.

My lil 4yr old went along for the ride...it was go oppurunity for him to take a nap, and he talked dad into DQ icecream !

There is a clicking sound when i guess lowering it? mine on the 50hp don't do this? any ideas what it might be or would cause this sound?

Matt,
Am I correct in assuming that the trim pump does work okay if you attempt to trim 'UP'?

It could mean that the 'DOWN' solenoid isn't working.
BUT:
Not all those older Merc trim systems have a 'DOWN' solenoid though, and only use (1) solenoid for the 'UP' function only.
If there is only (1) solenoid on the trim pump - it is for 'UP'.
If your pump does NOT have a 'DOWN' solenoid, the clicking is coming from the trim motor itself and a few medium taps of a hammer to the side of the motor while someone holds the 'DOWN' buttom in - might cure it temporarily - or - maybe cure it for quite a while if you're lucky.

If you DO have (2) solenoids on the trim pump,...The DOWN solenoid is the one that the GREEN wire coming from the trim pump is attached to - so - try bypassing the DOWN solenoid by connecting a temporary jumper wire between the (2) large terminals on the DOWN solenoid.
If the trim motor works now - the solenoid is at fault.
If the trim motor only 'clicks' - the trim motor is at fault and needs a few smacks with a hammer.

As always when using a jumper wire or other troubleshoot attempts where a spark is possible - be sure there are no fuel mix fumes or a fuel tank near the sparking.

Thom

A good item to add to anyones tool box on this site is a Power Probe.They make 3 models.Hook up the two leads to your battery and touch a terminal,will show a positive or negative light. You can hit the rocker switch, which will put power or ground to the terminal,so no jumper wires are needed.Has a reset button/circuit breaker/ so you can't fry it.The deluxe model also shows the exact digital voltage up to 42 volts of a hot lead,has head lights and a 20' extension that allows you to work on trailer lights while your hooked up to the tow vechile.So its good for any electrical problems from motor to dash switches.Easy to rule out whats good and whats bad.A big thumbs up on this tool....

there is only one selnoid..will have to check but think the down motion is when it clicks...it only clicks once not through the process.


i believe my trim on my boat has dual selnoids and you dont hear anything..the unit works leaked oil, but the seller replaced a couple o rings for bleeder screws..

I don't mean to steal the thread, but I just disassembled my pump and shimmed my armature to get better bite in the pump gear. One pump body screw snapped (I even used a micro-torch on it to try to break it free!). There obviously was once an o-ring at the pump body mating surface, but mine had been re-sealed with silicon sealer. There was a LOT of sludge in the valve body, and now I need an exploded diagram of how the valve body components go back together. Anyone got one you can e-mail me?

thats quite all right...the Dr. might..

Gary,
Are you deeper into the control valve assembly than the plate with four 'O' rings on top and bottom, or do you just need to know which direction, etc that plate needs to go?
If you need to have details for inside the control valve - let us know and perhaps we can come up with a break-down or explanation for you.
I also have scrap control valves so worse scene scenario I can dis-assemble and keep track of how to reassemble and post it.
Thom

Thanks,Thom: I'm as deep as I can go - down to the springs and balls! In lieu of an exploded diagram, I need abc's on putting the springs and balls back in place!

NO ONE has an exploded diagram of the valve body?

Sorry Gary,...I even looked in the Master Service Manuals and it just refers to it as the control valve assembly like the rest of the manuals.

If I wasn't so buried I would slowly disassemble a spare and write up a detailed explanation of what goes where in what order, but I will send you a complete control valve assembly to do the same yourself if you'll re-assemble it and return it when you're done.
If interested - please write direct to me at:
frankenmerc at comcast dot net
Thom

This amount of alarm may not be necessary, but disassembly of the gear and valve body is a no no according to Mercury, because some of the reassembly is said to involve adjusting the pressure settings. We were warned that injury or death could occur if these pressure settings were improperly performed, with the risk of explosion of the pump or cylinders. Please be safe!

Joe
www.fergusonpoolemarine.com
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Thanks, Joe; If parts were replaced, such concern could be real. But if no parts are replaced, no adjustment should be needed.Ferguson_Poole wrote:

This amount of alarm may not be necessary, but disassembly of the gear and valve body is a no no according to Mercury, because some of the reassembly is said to involve adjusting the pressure settings. We were warned that injury or death could occur if these pressure settings were improperly performed, with the risk of explosion of the pump or cylinders. Please be safe!

Joe
www.fergusonpoolemarine.com
This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Hi Gary,
Again, I have not seen what of and how the pump has been disassembled, but it is my understanding that to fully disassemble one, that the adjustments would be lost. I unfortunately do not know if it is as simple as a carburetor mixture screw (where it can be reset almost exactly as removed), but if a pressure reading is required to correctly reset, I am still very concerned. Please do not count on this, but I think the setting are handled by allen headed machine screws with jam nuts to lock the pressure setting on some assemblies. Mercury service training would delibertly not offer any disassembly information (to discourage disassembly), but my teachers did report of hearing of a death in one case. Also note that no replacement parts, only the whole gear and valve body assembly were ever offered. Please seek some others advice to ensure that you do not have an issue.

Best Regards,
Joe
www.fergusonpoolemarine.com
This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Thom, I received your hose manifold and it looks just like my hose manifold. But I miscommunicated my problem. I have NOT disassembled my bhose manifold. I HAVE removed my hose manifold, and that's when the three springs and three check balls fell out. My question regards the reassembly of the manifold and plate to the pump body and SPECIFICALLY the orientation of the springs and check balls.

Dr_Frankenmerc wrote:

Gary,
Are you deeper into the control valve assembly than the plate with four 'O' rings on top and bottom, or do you just need to know which direction, etc that plate needs to go?
If you need to have details for inside the control valve - let us know and perhaps we can come up with a break-down or explanation for you.
I also have scrap control valves so worse scene scenario I can dis-assemble and keep track of how to reassemble and post it.
Thom

I have NOT disassembles the manifold which has the adjustments. But I HAVE removed the manifold from the pump body, and that's when the springs and check balls fell out, depriving me of the visual orientation of the springs and check balls.
Ferguson_Poole wrote:

Hi Gary,
Again, I have not seen what of and how the pump has been disassembled, but it is my understanding that to fully disassemble one, that the adjustments would be lost. I unfortunately do not know if it is as simple as a carburetor mixture screw (where it can be reset almost exactly as removed), but if a pressure reading is required to correctly reset, I am still very concerned. Please do not count on this, but I think the setting are handled by allen headed machine screws with jam nuts to lock the pressure setting on some assemblies. Mercury service training would delibertly not offer any disassembly information (to discourage disassembly), but my teachers did report of hearing of a death in one case. Also note that no replacement parts, only the whole gear and valve body assembly were ever offered. Please seek some others advice to ensure that you do not have an issue.

Best Regards,
Joe
www.fergusonpoolemarine.com
This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Here's what I've got: