TOPIC: Replacing Mercruiser Gimble Housing Assy in 23 Ft

I have a leak coming thru the Transom. To fix it I had the Exhaust Elbow replaced a couple of months ago, it was corroded thru where it attaches to the Gimbal Housing. The mechanic said the Gimbal Housing was also corroded, in that area, but was repairable with a special gasket that he made. Told me it wouldn't leak, but it only made the leak smaller! I don't believe his "Special Hand Made" Gasket is working.
The Mechanic ran the motor and looked for leaks, didn’t find any and insists his fix, including the gasket he made is OK & wants to charge me full price to do it over. I've contacted a new Mechanic & located a used Gimbal Housing Assy from the same place I got the Exhaust Elbow.
I don’t mind buying the Gimbal Housing Assy, it apparently should have been replaced with the Exhaust Elbow. But, I want to make sure the leak is actually fixed. A major cost is Removing, Reinstalling & Aligning the Motor each time.
Any advise on what to look for when the motor's out and the old Gimbal housing is off?

Hi John3,
As I only know that you have a Mercruiser in a 23 foot boat, this may possibly not be focused enough, but here are some thoughts:
1): carefully inspect the transom wood for water or rot. If all is well, an application of penetrating epoxy (to the cut-out and holes) might be a wise investment
2): likewise the transom drain tube or bilge pump might need attention - a through clean-up of the bilge area may also be timely
3): check the steering arm and gimbal ring to upper swivel shaft for play, early ones may need replacement parts, later ones may can be adjusted
4): some Mercruisers use a cork gasket, I would utilize a new one; and some a large rubber o-ring, it should possibly also be replaced - polysulfide sealant (such as Life Calk) may be a smart addition to the transom to gimbal housing fitment
5): the universal joint bellows, shift cable bellows, exhaust bellows, shift cable, bell housing upper shift rod seals, cooling water supply hose, trim limit & trim gauge sender switches and wiring, and power trim & tilt hoses, should all be inspected and replaced if questionable

Best Regards,
Joe
www.fergusonpoolemarine.com
This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Ferguson_Poole wrote:

Hi John3,
As I only know that you have a Mercruiser in a 23 foot boat, this may possibly not be focused enough, but here are some thoughts:
1): carefully inspect the transom wood for water or rot. If all is well, an application of penetrating epoxy (to the cut-out and holes) might be a wise investment
2): likewise the transom drain tube or bilge pump might need attention - a through clean-up of the bilge area may also be timely
3): check the steering arm and gimbal ring to upper swivel shaft for play, early ones may need replacement parts, later ones may can be adjusted
4): some Mercruisers use a cork gasket, I would utilize a new one; and some a large rubber o-ring, it should possibly also be replaced - polysulfide sealant (such as Life Calk) may be a smart addition to the transom to gimbal housing fitment
5): the universal joint bellows, shift cable bellows, exhaust bellows, shift cable, bell housing upper shift rod seals, cooling water supply hose, trim limit & trim gauge sender switches and wiring, and power trim & tilt hoses, should all be inspected and replaced if questionable

Best Regards,
Joe
www.fergusonpoolemarine.com
This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Thank you Joe. Good Info, I'll try and put it to goods use.
It's the original Mercruiser Motor, 160 HP Straight 6, rebuilt 3 months ago.
The attached picture shows the current Bell Housing Assy.
It originally had the Mercruiser "Power Tilt" Outdrive. It eventually broke & I couldn't get a replacement. It now has a pre-Alpha OD. No down lock in reverse, I strap it down so I can have reverse. I try not to hit any rocks. I'm experimenting with Nylon Straps, trying to find something that will break if I hit a rock or something but strong enough to allow normal reversing.

Since your boat is 1967 to 1969, I would look for a complete replacement 120/140/165 with the hydraulic lines coming out the bottom. This will give you trim also, but you will need the donor pump, trim cylinders, plumbing & reverse lock valve. You could look for a 1967 thru 1969 120/140/160 with trim also. These would have 2 lines on each side instead of 1 like yours. Again, you will need the associated extra parts. I would shy away from the 1967 thru 1969 model because there are 4 different part number noses & they are a bitch to change & typically need to be special ordered. The bottom mounted lines are all 4 the same part number.

From my experience, the earliest bottom mounted units are OK except for the top mounted trim limit switch goes bad & is NLA. So you will need to bypass it. The next generation with side mounted trim limit switch usually will have worn out splines on the steering tiller. So pick & choose used parts carefully.