TOPIC: "T" shaped trailer bunks

I have to install bunks on my new trailer for the Glastron. I was thinking about making a T shaped bunk with a 2x6 vertical and a 2x4 horizontal so the 3-1/2" side is flat on the boat. Would give it a little more bearing surface. Any thoughts?

I'm with you on the 2x4 flat for the bunk, but not sure I follow on the 2x6 vertical Todd. Do you mean as a support for the flat bunks, instead of using pre-fab metal brackets?

Use pre-fab metal brackets for mounting 2-bys in the vertical position. Mount the 2x6 in that on the vertical (significantly stronger than on the flat) and attach the 2x4 perpendicular on top.

The other alternative would be to use a 4x4 on top of the existing brackets I have now, but that would make it heavy.

My thought is that a 2x4 or 2x6 on the flat would not be very strong.

How would you attach the 2 X 6 to the trailer Todd?

Frank

West Marine item 391278

Thanks Todd, I get it it now. That should work fine, I like the idea!

Frank

Todd,
Definitely doable and over kill, but hey I'm known for doing that all the time on most everyvone f my projects! My trailer has bunks that are 2"x3", actual measurements, mounted upright and the boat has been siting on them sit it was bough back in 1960. They are covered in carpet of course, but the bottom of the hull is just fine and straight as originally built. I can post a pic tomorrow if you like.

Bob

Hi,
Although I may still not be following the plan, if the idea is to create an "I-beam" effect, I can see situations where it would be better to not add the stiffener, and allow the flat 2X6 or 2X4 to contour itself to the hull. An alternate solution would be to have four bunks, two per each side of the keel, to noticeably reduce point loading. Only if the spacing between bunk brackets is quite large (this seldom occurs as most manufacturers do add frame crossmembers at reasonable intervals), do I prefer this idea.

Regards,
Joe
www.fergusonpoolemarine.com
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I am beginning to re-think this for a couple of reasons. 1) The T, which being structurally strong, will not allow any flex in the bunk for it to contour to the hull. That would cut down dramatically on the bearing surface. 2) The cost. I would have to buy 4 new brackets with hardware, two 2x4x8', two 2x6x8' and 8 lag screws and washers. Not a deal breaker, but significant.

I'm thinking maybe a couple of high grade 2x6x8', the brackets described here and the appropriate bolts would work fine.

From the pics of your new trailer in your other thread, it looks like your trailer has plenty of cross members Todd. By adding a couple more upright brackets, I think your new idea will work just fine. I believe it will be plenty sturdy! Just my two cents worth......

I've decided to go with 4x4 bunk boards on my Holsclaw, for two reasons; 1) I only have two places (uprights) supporting the bunk boards and I want to lengthen them, and 2) I need the 3 1/2" height to keep the keel high enough on the trailer. (I'll start a separate thread on that so we don't clutter yours up.)

When I replaced the back rollers on the Glastron SSV-176, I used a 2 X 6 and bolted a 2 x 4 to the outer side of the top of it. So I have about a 3 1/2 inch surface touching the bottom of the boat. I also angled the top of the 2 boards so it would match the shape of the hull.
Then covered that with some inexpensive outdoor carpeting from Lowes.

If looking from the back, the right bunker would look something like this:


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|..|
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After way too much time and effort, I got the bunks installed on the trailer. I used the existing vertical brackets with the T bracket on top. The core of the bunk is a 2x6, bolted to the bracket with 3/8" galv counter sunk bolts. The carpet came from a 5x8 rug that I bought for $20 at a local discount store. It is attached with 1" bronze ring nails (been gathering dust in my garage for the last 12 years or so.) That should work.

Had to replace a lot of bolts as what was there was too rusted to reuse. Moved the axle two notches forward. Now I have to reposition the lights and add amber side lights and the 3 small lights in the middle. Then it should be ready for inspection.

Excellent Todd, that came out great and should work out perfect. I like the keel rollers too, of course I'm biased, my trailer is set up the same way only my bunks are much shorter in length.
That should serve you just fine.

Bob

Looks like it turned out well Todd, nice work. You can always add another set of upright supports in the middle of the bunks, if it looks like you need them after the boat is on there a while. I always try to install new hardware (if it's in the budget) when doing a project like this, good call.